THE DAIRY. 307 



ewe-milk, and the cheese of Mont Cenis from both of these 

 mixed with the milk of the cow. 



Creamed oruncreamed milk. Still further differences are 

 produced according to the proportion of cream which is left in 

 or is added to the milk. Thus if cream only be employed, we 

 have the rich cream-cheese which must be eaten in a com- 

 paratively recent state. Or, if the cream of the previous 

 night's milking be added to the new milk of the morning, we 

 may have such cheese as the Stilton of England, or the 

 small, soft, and rich Brie cheeses, so much esteemed in 

 France. If the entire milk only be used, we have such 

 cheeses as the Cheshire, the Double Gloucester, the Cheddar, 

 the Wiltshire, and the Dunlop cheeses of Britain, the Kinne- 

 gad cheese, I believe, of Ireland, and the Gouda and Edam 

 cheeses of Holland. Even here, however, it makes a differ- 

 ence whether the warm milk from the cow is curdled alone, 

 aa at Gouda and Edam, or whether it is mixed with the milk 

 of the evening before, as is generally done in Cheshire and 

 Ayrshire. Many persons are of opinion that cream, which 

 has once been separated, can never be so well mixed again 

 with the milk, that a portion of the fatty matter shall not flow 

 out with the whey and render the cheese less rich. If, again, 

 the cream of the evening's milk be removed, and the skimmed 

 milk added to the new milk of the next morning, such cheeses 

 as the Single Gloucester are obtained. If the cream be taken 

 once from all the milk, the better kinds of skimmed-milk 

 cheese, such as the Dutch cheese of Leyden, are prepared ; 

 while if the milk be twice skimmed, we have the poorer 

 cheeses of Friesland and Groningen. If skimmed for three 

 or four days in succession, we get the hard and horny cheeses 

 of Essex and Sussex, which often require the axe to break 

 them up. 



Butter-milk cheese. But poor or butterless cheese will also 

 ditlf'r in finality according to the state of the milk from which 

 it is extracted. If the new milk be allowed to stand to throw 

 up its cream, and this be then removed in the usual way, 

 the ordinary skimrned-milk cheese will be obtained by adding 

 rennet to the milk. But if, instead of skimming, we allow 

 the milk to stand till it begins to sour, and then remove the 

 butter by churning the whole, we obtain the milk in a sour 

 state (butter-milk.} From this milk the curd separates natu- 

 rally by gentle heating. But being thus prepared from sour 

 milk and without the use of rennet, butter-milk cheese differs 

 more or less in quality from that which is made from sweet 



