112 CALIFORNIA GARDEN FLOWERS 



begins to establish itself with new rootlets, if the ground is warm and 

 moist, and is, therefore, better fitted to sustain the leaves which sun- 

 shine on twig and branch calls forth. But November is only the 

 beginning of the planting season, and in some localities later work is 

 more desirable. 



November is a month for great activity in bulb planting which 

 has been delayed, also for open-ground sowing of the multitude of 

 native and introduced plants which make winter growth and early 

 spring bloom. It is also timely to set out bedding plants, brought 

 along in pots or boxes from earlier sowings. They will bloom even 

 into midsummer. 



Sweet peas now planted will continue late winter bloom into 

 spring time. 



Freesias, held back from early planting, will now go forward into a 

 good later blooming season. Watsonias also will do well if not longer 

 delayed. It is also still time to plant irises. 



Dahlias, gladioli and cannas should now be taken up and stored 

 in a dry, cool place for planting out after the cold rains are passed: 

 although they will survive being left in place, better flowers come from 

 keeping them out of long dormancy in cold, wet ground. 



DECEMBER. 



Shorter days and lower temperatures bring the California garden to 

 its nearest approach to wintry conditions during December; but 

 autumn flowers still bloom, fresh grass grows and trees put forth new 

 leaves in many parts of the state. It is not uncommon to see the 

 same kind of flowers amid Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas decora- 

 tions. 



And yet there is work to do in December which is, to a degree at 

 least, distinctive. Deciduous trees and shrubs are nearest to dormancy 

 and, therefore, in good condition for pruning and for propagation by 

 hard wood cuttings. Roses, which were encouraged to autumn bloom 

 by the treatment prescribed last July and August, are now entering 

 upon their longer rest, and may be thoroughly handled for shape 

 and for the growth of new wood. Thrust sharp shears, then, into the 

 brushy bushes and cut out, close to the roots, old wood which has done 

 its work and save enough of the younger stems to renew bush-form, 

 selecting both for strength and position, so that new shoots, soon to 

 come, shall have space to develop and contribute to symmetry. To 

 the skillful pruner a well-rpuned bush has a peculiar beauty, because 

 it suggests future shapeliness and vigor, while to the uninitiated it may 

 be but an ugly bunch of prongs and stubs. Try to realize this and you 

 will find a deeper significance in pruning and learn how to do it 

 rationally. Standard shrubs and fruit trees are, in a way, treated 



