ROSES FROM CUTTINGS 135 



and temperature are right. A shift or two before setting in the open 

 is, however, desirable. 



Growing From Long Cuttings. The growing of roses from long 

 cuttings of dormant wood is according to the suggestions made in 

 detail in Chapter VIII. Cuttings are preferably made of straight, well 

 matured shoots of the last growth, although others, even of old stems, 

 will often grow well. The cuttings should be about six inches in 

 length, from a quarter to half an inch in thickness and if sprouting 

 from below ground is not desired the buds from the lower part of the 

 cutting may be pinched out. This will retard sprouting, though not 

 wholly prevent it, for latent buds are apt to be developed. These cut- 

 tings may be planted in the open where bushes are desired, during the 

 early part of the rainy season, when the soil is right. In such rough 

 work it is a surety of getting a plant to plant four or five cuttings 

 where the plant is wanted. Some growers are sure that cuttings "like 

 company," and most of them are almost sure to grow. The surplus 

 plants, if any, can be transplanted. In such a case, as in all handling 

 of cuttings, the planting should be done with a dibble or trowel and 

 the cutting carefully set with the earth firmed into close contact with 

 the base of it. Rose cuttings will often grow if simply pushed into 

 the soil, but if this requires force it is apt to upset the cambrium layer 

 and callusing becomes thereby more difficult. Therefore cuttings 

 should be planted and not "stuck into the ground." 



To secure a clean-cut base; to secure also the "company" advantage, 

 if there is anything in that, and to serve convenience in keeping every- 

 thing in good order, the cuttings should be carefully planted in a 

 trench, as shown by the figure in Chapter VIII, which also shows what 

 a good hardwood cutting looks like. Planting in a trench enables you 

 to see just how the cuttings are set that they are not hanging in an 

 air-cell and that the soil is firm at the point where the roots will start, 

 viz.: from the callus which will form at the cut end. After the cuttings 

 are set and the trench filled, with the soil loose near the surface, a 

 litter or mulch of leaves, lawn clippings, or a covering of sand will 

 keep the surface from too great compacting by rain or sprinkling and 

 subsequent drying, baking or cracking by sun-heat or dry air. Usually 

 the amateur can get all the rose plants he desires by reasonably fol- 

 lowing these suggestions. From such cuttings set in the autumn or 

 early winter, one is apt to get blooms in May and a good sized bush 

 for transplanting in a year from starting. If it is desired to develop 

 the growth from one bud and escape shoots from below, all buds below 

 the top one should be cut out before planting. 



Rose Cuttings Wrong-End Up. All that has been said refers to 

 planting cuttings right-end up: just as they grew and are expected to 

 grow. To get the highest percentage of success with cuttings and 



