68 CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



drying and great hardening of the pit. Some plant in the fall and 

 trust to natural conditions to start the seedling in the spring, but this 

 interferes with the cultivation of the ground, and leaves the seedling 

 to grow in soil which has perhaps been puddled by heavy winter 

 rains. There must also be much hand work done to clear the rows 

 from weeds. It is much better to keep the pits from drying by covering 

 with sand moderately moist, hasten the sprouting by appropriate treat- 

 ment toward spring, and then plant out in thoroughly prepared soil, 

 and they will make a satisfactory growth. The following method, 

 by D. J. Parmele, of Vacaville, has given good results: 



Keep the pits out of the sun until the rains commence in the fall, then put 

 them into a box about a foot deep with openings at the bottom for drainage, and 

 scatter sand or fine earth through them, putting about two inches on top, and 

 place them under the eaves of a building on the south side, where they will get 

 well soaked every time it rains. If there should be a long dry spell during the 

 winter, water them a little. About March they will open and sprout. Then take 

 a plow and open a deep furrow in loose, mellow ground, and, with a hoe, pull 

 about two-thirds of the dirt back into the furrow, breaking the clods, and mak- 

 ing it fine, the same as you would if you expected to plant onion seed there. 

 Drop the sprouted pits in straight line, and cover two inches. On account of the 

 extra work in preparing the ground, the trees will be large enough to bud in July. 



Another way is to spread out the pits on a smooth piece of ground 

 and cover with sacks, and over these a layer of straw three or four 

 inches thick to retain moisture. The pits may be planted out as soon 

 as they crack open, although no harm will be done if they are allowed 

 to lie until the sprouts are well out. 



Another method which has been especially recommended for 

 treatment for almonds is the following: Lay boards upon the ground 

 and cover them with an inch of sand ; spread on this a layer of almonds 

 and then another inch of sand, and so on. Keep the pile wet, and in 

 three weeks of warm weather they will burst open. Plant in drills 

 one inch deep and put over them a light coat of rotten straw. 



If from any cause the pits have become quite dry, they should be 

 soaked in water two or three days before planting. 



Nut Tree Seedlings. In growing nut-tree seedlings, much the 

 same methods are followed as with pits of stone fruits. There are 

 methods described in detail by California growers which should be 

 given. As has been said, the nuts may be planted at any time after 

 ripening, in the milder parts of the State, if the grower will undertake 

 the greater care and cultivation. On some light soils where the rainfall 

 is not excessive, this is not much trouble. Felix Gillet, of Nevada 

 City, gives this as his method : 



The nuts may be planted as soon as gathered, though in Nevada City it is 

 too cold to plant them in the fall, for the frost in winter would surely lift the 

 nuts right out of the ground. For keeping and sprouting walnuts, I throw into 

 the bottom of a box one inch deep of sand, then a layer of nuts y put in another 

 inch of sand, and another layer of nuts, and so on to one or two inches from the 

 top. Then water well with a sprinkler and water again during the winter when- 

 ever the sand gets too dry. The sand has to be pretty well saturated with water, 

 especially from the first of January down to planting time, which is in February, 

 March or April, according to localities. The latter part of March or first week 

 in Aoril is best for Nevada City. The nuts are planted in drills and covered 

 to a depth of two to three inches. 



