DETAILS OF BUDDING 75 



at 3, in the engraving-, with the bark slightly lifted and ready for the 

 insertion of the bud. Next he cuts from his bud stick a bud, as shown 

 at 2. This carries with it, on the back, a small portion of the wood of 

 the bud stick as well as the bud and bark. It was once claimed that 

 this wood should be carefully dug out, but in budding most kinds of 

 trees it is not necessary; in fact, it may be better to leave it in; such 

 at any rate is the general practice. The point of the bud is now in- 

 serted at the opening at the top of the slit in the bark of the stock arid a 

 pushed down into place, as shown in figure 5. To handle the bud* 

 the part of the leaf stem which is left on is of material assistance. 

 Nothing remains now but to apply the ligature which is to hold down 

 the bark around the bud. 



There are various ways of tying in the bud. Any way will do 

 which holds down the bark closely, but not too tightly. Different 

 materials are also used, soft cotton twine, stocking yarn, strips of 

 cotton cloth, candle wicking, etc. The last-named is perhaps the best 

 material, on all accounts, although strips of cheap calico bear evenly 

 upon the bark and do very good work. The use of twine is speedy, 

 but the strands bearing upon a narrow surface, and not being elastic, 

 they are apt to do injury by cutting into the bark unless carefully 

 watched and loosened. The fiber from basswood bark was formerly 

 largely used, but has given place to the other materials named, which 

 are more handily obtained. The buds must be examined about a week 

 or ten days after the insertion, and the ligature loosened, for other- 

 wise it will cut into the rapidly-growing stock. Sometimes trees are 

 badly injured by neglect in this particular. 



In making June buds, where immediate growth of the bud is de- 

 sired, some growers make a hard not with the cord around the stock, 

 above the bud, and then use the loose ends to tie the bud. When the 

 binding around the bud is loosened, the hard knot remains on the 

 stock, girdles it, and forces the sap, into the bud. Thin wire, known to 

 nurserymen as "label wire," is also used for this purpose. 



In going through the nursery row, all seedlings, which are large 

 enough are budded at once. In going through the row again to look 

 to the bands, if the bud is seen to be fresh looking, it is considered to 

 have "taken." In stocks where the first bud has dried up, another is 

 inserted lower down. Sometimes seedlings which were too small to 

 hold a bud at the first working over are given a bud later in the 

 season, or left for taking up for root grafting in the winter. 



In nursery practice the budder does not 'stop to tie his buds, but is 

 followed in the row by another man, who carries the tying material, 

 and does this part of the work. I 



The common method of budding thus described is used on all 

 common orchard fruits. Special styles of budding for '.special fruits 

 will be described in the chapters treating of those fruits. 



Usually the budded trees are allowed to stand t in the nursery row 

 with no other treatment that year than the insertion and care of the 

 bud, the latter remaining dormant until the -next spring. Then, as 

 soon as the sap begins to swell the buds on the stock, the top is cut off 

 down to about two ; inches above the bud, and all growth is kept off 



