GRAFTING OVER BEARING TREES 83 



winter, which has the effect of forcing out new shoots around the head 

 of the tree, and in these the buds of the desired variety are set in the 

 summer, just as is done in budding nursery stock, except that the 

 budding should be done rather earlier because the sap does not run as 

 late. When the shoots are budded, those being selected which are 

 situated so as to give the best symmetry to the new head, the shoots 

 not budded are broken a foot or so from where they emerge from the 

 old wood, and are allowed to hang until pruning time. At the winter 

 pruning the budding branches are topped off a little above the bud, 

 and when the new shoot starts it is often loosely tied to the stub of 

 the old branch to prevent breaking out in the wind. When it gets 

 strength, the stub is cut away smoothly to allow the wound to heal over. 



Another way is to insert the buds in the old bark at points where 

 it is desirable to have the new branches start. This is sometimes done 

 by lifting the bark, as in ordinary budding, and slipping the bud under, 

 sometimes by what is called shield or plate budding, which consists 

 in removing a piece of the old bark entirely and putting in its place 

 a piece of bark of the desired variety, having upon it a dormant bud. 

 With plate budding it is necessary to be careful to have the inserted 

 bark just the size of the bared spot, and to wrap it more closely than 

 when the bud is slipped under the bark of the stock. In all cases in 

 budding old trees, care must be taken to get fully-matured buds, and 

 it is well to take them from large shoots, which have a thicker and 

 firmer bark than may be used in budding nursery stock. It is also 

 desirable to be very sure that the buds are taken not only from a tree 

 of the desired variety, but from a healthy, vigorous tree of that variety. 



In selecting buds, also, one must be sure that he gets leaf buds, 

 and not fruit buds only. In taking buds from some kinds of bearing 

 trees, of course, he may sometimes, to get well-ripened buds, be 

 obliged to take both fruit and leaf buds together. This will work 

 well if care is taken not to rub off the leaf bud. It is rather easier, 

 however, to work with buds from young trees not yet in bearing if 

 one can be sure that these trees are of the desired variety. 



Grafting Old Trees. Old trees are also renewed by grafting. 

 This is most generally done by the old process of "top grafting." 

 The main stem or the larger branches are cut square off, and the scions, 

 usually two, but four or more if in the trunk, are shaped and set 

 into clefts in the stock as shown in the engraving. It is better to use 

 limbs above the main fork, or head of the tree, than to graft in the 

 trunk, if the old trees are of good size. The following description, 

 which the writer borrows in part from some unknown source, will 

 serve to guide novices in the matter : 



The outfit necessary for doing the work consists of a small, fine saw, a 

 regular grafting knife, or a pocket-knife with a long, straight sharp blade, wax, 

 light mallet, and a hard-wood narrow wedge. After selecting the limb to be 

 grafted, saw it off your own judgment will guide you as to best point, but 

 before the saw gets quite through the limb, cut the bark on the under side of 

 the limb to prevent the liability of peeling down. 



Next split the stub with knife and mallet and insert the wedge in the center 

 of the cleft to hold it open. It is usual to cut the scion with two buds, but 

 sometimes better results are had by using scions with but a single bud. Whittle 



