84 CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



the scion wedge shape, so that it fits nicely down into the cleft. To do this, 

 hold it in the left hand with the bud at the ball of the thumb, then cut the side 

 toward you; as will be natural, turn it over, and cut the opposite side in the 

 same way, making the wedge a very little thinner on the edge opposite the bud 

 than the other. This will insure a firm pressure at the points where the bark 

 of scion and stock meet. 



When set, the bud of the scion will be on line with the outer long portion of 

 the graft. The point to be closely observed in adjustment is to have the inner 

 or sap bark of the scion connected with the same of the stock. If a trifle too 

 far in, or too far out, the work will be a failure. Some people set the graft 

 a little out at the top and a little in at the bottom, so as to be sure of a con- 

 nection at the crossing point, but there will be firmer hold if there is a union 

 the whole length. Our rule has been to have the wood of the scion come exactly 

 parallel with the surface of the stock, and we seldom fail in getting firm adhesions 

 and solid limbs after years of growth. 



After the scions are set, and two should be put into one limb if large, care- 

 fully withdraw the wedge and apply the wax, so that every part of the wood and 

 bark cut and split is well coated. In doing this use extreme care not to move 

 the scions at all from their sittings. If the pinch of the stock is seen to be 

 severe, a small wedge may be left in the center to save the scions from crushing. 

 If there is a large cleft, it may be filled with damp clay before waxing over. 



Most grafting over of old trees is done by this method, using one 

 or another of the wax preparations described upon a preceding page. 

 If the cut surface of the stock and the split is thoroughly waxed over 

 as low as the bark is split, there is usually little trouble with the growth 

 of the scion and the healing over of the stock. In the warmer valleys 

 in the interior, the sun is often hot enough to melt the wax and cause 

 it to run and bare the wood surfaces. This is prevented by dusting 

 the wax thoroughly with brick dust well powdered; but, by a little 

 experimenting with the recipes already given, one can secure a wax 

 which will stand any heat likely to be encountered. 



For grafting over trees by working upon the limbs, the neatest 

 and surest work can be done by methods of grafting which do not 

 require the splitting of the stock. There are various ways of doing 

 this. One method is shown in the engraving on the next page, and 

 consists in cutting the scion as shown, and inserting it beneath the 

 raised bark and then binding well with waxed bands, the preparation 

 of which has already been described. 



Another method is an application of what the French call oblique 

 side grafting. It consists of making an oblique cut downward through 

 the bark of the stock and for a distance into the wood, using a chisel 

 and mallet or even a strong knife. A saw and knife are also used for 

 making this cut, as will be described in the chapter on the peach. A 

 small form of side graft has already been shown earlier in this chapter. 

 In it the scion is held in with a wax band. Some growers remove 

 the top of the stock with a sloping cut about half an inch above the 

 scion, as shown in the engraving, and wrap the waxed band well 

 around and over all the exposed surfaces. Others do not remove the 

 whole of the limb until the scion has started well into growth, and 

 then they cut down and pare the stock and cover with a band or with 

 a wax that will not run in the sun. 



Several ingenious devices have been patented by Californians for 

 securing uniformity in the incision in the stock and in shaping the 

 scion, but it is so easy to succeed with ordinary tools that such inven- 



