THE COMMON VASE FORM 113 



valleys, and the highest branch at eighteen or twenty-four inches. This 

 gives about twice the distance between the main branches which was 

 formerly allowed, and it is of vast advantage to the strength of the 

 tree. The illustrations of this fact are from trees planted by the writer 

 in 1887 to test this matter. At this date they are large trees and show 

 the forms of heads resulting from different spacing of branches on the 

 young trees during the first summer's growth. 



First, then, cut back the tree just after planting, as shown in the 

 engraving, deciding first at which height you wish trees to form heads, 

 and cut them all back as uniformly as possible and still secure a good 

 bud just below the point of cutting. To preserve these buds the trees 

 should be handled carefully while removing from the nursery and dur- 

 ing planting. 



If the tree has already grown laterals in the nursery where the head 

 is desired, three or four of these properly 1 placed on the stem may be 

 selected to form the main branches, shortened in to the sound bud 

 nearest the stem, and other laterals, not desired to form the head, re- 

 moved. This treatment is shown in the engraving of a young peach 

 tree well branched in the nursery. If all the laterals on the young tree- 

 have started out above where the head is desired, as is sometimes the 

 case, it may be necessary to remove the whole top, and usually others 

 will start below afterwards. If there are no buds visible on the stem at 

 the place where the head is desired, the choice must be made between 

 heading the tree higher up, where the buds are, or cutting back without 

 regard to buds, trusting to the development of latent buds at the right 

 place, or to the growth of a shoot from below, which can be cut back 

 to form a head the following year. It is for this reason, among others, 

 that planters prefer a yearling tree which has not branched, but has 

 good buds all along the stem. Peaches and apricots usually branch in 

 the nursery, but usually have dormant buds at the bases of such branches 

 which can be employed in making new growth where it is desired. 



After cutting back at planting, the shoots desired to form the head 

 are allowed to make their full growth without interference. All shoots 

 not desired for branches are pinched off after growing out two or three 

 inches, leaving a bunch of leaves to shade the trunk and contribute to 

 its stouter growth. Constant watchfulness is necessary to pinch off un- 

 desirable branches all the first summer. 



First Pruning. In the winter following planting, the shoots of 

 the previous season's growth are cut back to about ten or twelve inches 

 from their junction with the stem. Some prefer to cut shorter, but this 

 is apt to huddle the branches too close together when they get old and 

 stout. Growers, however, do not agree on the exact length which these 

 future main branches should be left at first pruning. 



If, during the first summer's growth, all shoots except the number 

 desired to form the head have been pinched back, the first winter prun- 

 ing consists only in cutting back the main branches. If laterals have 

 grown on the parts of these branches which are to be left on the tree, 

 they should be cut back to a bud or two. Some growers practice cutting 

 away all such laterals cleanly because they are too young to bear fruit, 

 but it is better to shorten and retain at least a part of them and, when 



