114 



CALIFORNIA FRUITS I HOW TO GROW THEM 



growth starts, pinch the tips after throwing out' a few leaves to shade 

 and thicken the branches, just as the short growths left the previous 

 summer serve the main stem. 



Second Pruning. During the second summer it is usual to allow 

 two branches to grow from each of the main branches left at the pre- 

 vious winter pruning, and to pinch off all others, as described. These 

 branches are allowed to run out their full growth, except where ex- 

 cessive growth is made, and then it is repressed by summer pruning. 

 This is done with the apricot in the warmer parts of the State, as will 

 be considered at length in the chapter on that fruit. Usually, however, 

 the main branches are untouched during the second summer's growth 

 unless some are running out so far as to make the tree lop-sided. Dur- 

 ing the following winter the main branches are cut back from one-half 

 to two-thirds of the growth they have made, and if too many strong 

 laterals have grown below this point, some are shortened, others are 

 removed entirely where they are apt to cross or crowd each other or to 

 interfere with cultivation. It is not desirable, however, that all small 

 growth should be cleanly removed. Some of these small shoots will 

 bear a little fruit and the leaf action is in any case desirable as a con- 

 tributor to the strength of the larger branches to which they are at- 

 tached. Besides, they serve to shade the bark from sunburn. 



Third Pruning. When the tree reaches its third winter prun- 

 ing, its form is well outlined, and early-bearing trees like the peach, 

 apricot, almond, Japanese plum, etc., will give the grower a respectable 



Pruning for branch spacing. 



Yearling apple marked to cut back for greater or less 

 space between main branches; also first year's growth 

 from each beginning marked for first winter pruning. 



