PRUNING THE APPLE TREE 199 



First Year : On planting cut the stem from 30 to 36 inches in 

 height, with the terminal bud toward the southwest. In the spring, 

 when growth begins, strip off all shoots from the ground up to about 

 20 inches. Above this point let all growth remain during the summer. 

 If for any cause during early summer a bud does not start where 

 wanted, a short transverse cut through the bark just above the bud 

 will cause it to develop into limb. 



Beginning of Second Year : Cut off all limbs except those selected 

 to remain permanently. Two, three, four, and not more than five limbs 

 should be allowed to remain, the number depending on their position. 

 It should be the aim to distribute them evenly on all sides, and to give 

 all possible space between limbs up and down the trunk. This latter 

 precaution is to give room for expansion of limbs in after years. Cut 

 back the limbs that are to remain, taking off from one-third to one-half 

 of the previous season's growth. If the tree is of a spreading habit, 

 and it is desired to have it grow erect, cut to inner buds. If desired 

 to spread the top cut to outer buds. 



Beginning of Third Year: Allow two or three lateral limbs to 

 remain on each of the main branches. Top the tree again, taking off 

 from one-third to one-half the previous year's growth. Continue this 

 method during the first four years, at which time the tree should begin 

 to bear, and if surrounding conditions are favorable, it will prove 

 strong, vigorous and capable of sustaining a heavy load of apples. The 

 after treatment will consist mainly in keeping the top properly thinned. 



After coming into bearing there must be intelligent pruning accord- 

 ing to the growth-habit of the variety. Some varieties, like the Yellow 

 Bellflower, resent heavy pruning after coming into bearing, and slow 

 growers like the Yellow Newtown Pippin, do not need it. On the other 

 hand, varieties like the Winesap and Smith's Cider are apt to make 

 long slim branches and bear at the ends. This can be corrected by 

 cutting back to secure more short shoots which will bear better fruit. 

 Some varieties, like the Jonathan, will make plenty of short spurs 

 under this treatment, while others, like Rome Beauty and Rhode Island 

 Greening, are persistent tip-bearers, but can be gradually drawn in 

 without reducing the crop too much. ,The grower must study his 

 varieties not only with reference to this but in forming the tree, cutting 

 to an inside bud all varieties which naturally take a horizontal direction, 

 and cutting to an outside bud varieties which have a tendency to send 

 up tall, straight shoots. By thus throwing the new growth upward 

 in the first case, and outward in the second, one can shape each kind 

 to greater symmetry and strength for fruit carrying, and bring up all 

 spreading varieties to a form which admits near approach of the plow 

 and cultivator. This manner of shaping the tree must continue as long 

 as seems necessary to secure a tree which will come to bearing age 

 shapely and strong, and within reach. 



Bearing trees should not be allowed to carry too many branches, 

 and pruning will largely consist of thinning out surplus shoots and 

 removing interference between branches. It is not desirable to shorten 

 in the apple as is done with the apricot and peach. 



