214 CALIFORNIA FRUITS I HOW TO GROW THEM 



nearer planting is done it should be with reference to subsequent re- 

 moval of part of the trees, which, however, is very seldom done. 

 Twenty feet apart, with later removal of half the trees to double the 

 distance was proposed by H. D. Briggs, of Azusa, in this way : 



In setting out an orchard it seems advisable to double set the ground, as an 

 apricot twelve to fifteen years old should have not less than 800 to 900 square 

 feet of ground. This can easily be obtained by setting 20 x 20 feet; then when 

 nine or ten years old remove every other tree, making them forty feet in the 

 row, with rows twenty feet apart, of course, taking them out diagonally. The 

 trees will very quickly tell the orchardist when they are too thick. When the 

 outside rows have twice the fruit of those inside, it is quite evident that the time 

 spent in pruning, etc., on half of the trees is worse than wasted. I have cut 

 roots forty feet from a nine-year-old tree. 



The apricot makes such rapid growth and so much depends upon 

 giving it proper form, as will be seen presently, that one year's growth 

 is all that should be allowed in the nursery. Some growers would 

 rather have a dormant bud than a two-year-old tree, and cases have 

 been reported from dormant buds outgrowing yearling trees planted 

 at the same time in the same orchard. But in growing from a dor- 

 mant bud in the orchard care should be taken to develop a short trunk, 

 with properly-spaced branches, by pinching the side shoots near the 

 ground. Trees started from dormant bud and allowed to branch from 

 the ground, have developed very unsatisfactory form, and have, in 

 some situations, lost their lower branches by the wind. The tree 

 should have a low head, but a short trunk seems to give a better tree, 

 and more elasticity to the branches. 



PRUNING THE APRICOT 



Of all the California orchard trees, the apricot seems most in need 

 of the constant attention of the orchardist to give it proper shape and 

 strength. It is a rampant grower, and in its zealous haste for size 

 and fruitage it over-reaches itself and becomes the prey of specific 

 gravity and wind force. Thousands of trees have been ruined by 

 literally breaking to pieces with the weight of their fruit, and being 

 torn by winds of only ordinary velocity. Thousands more have been 

 rescued from such a fate by bolting the branches to each other. This 

 excessive growth and consequent weakness of the apricot is greater 

 in some parts of the State than in others, because of the difference in 

 degree of forcing conditions, but everywhere the apricot needs watch- 

 fulness and timely aid in building up its strength. The general prin- 

 ciples to be observed in securing branches strongly attached to a short 

 trunk have already been discussed at length in the chapter on pruning. 



There has been a very marked change during the last few years 

 of the pruning of the apricot. Summer pruning, immediately after the 

 fruit is picked, has become much more general, and winter pruning 

 has proportionally decreased. The new practice is certainly more 

 rational than the old. Young trees are winter pruned to promote low 

 branching and short, stout limbs ; bearing trees are summer pruned to 

 promote fruit bearing and check wood growth the excess of bearing 

 shoots being removed by thinning during the winter. 



