COMMON VASE-FORM OF APRICOT TREE 215 



The apricot tree bears upon old spurs, like the plum ; also upon the 

 new wood, like the peach. This fact has to be borne in mind when 

 winter thinning of the new growth is undertaken. 



A very clear record of procedure is given by J. B. Neff, of Ana- 

 heim, Orange County, who built up one of the best apricot orchards 

 in the State as he describes. This orchard was displaced to make way 

 for English walnut trees which are more profitable in that district, but 

 that was no fault of the pruning : 



Pruning the apricot requires some skill and considerable judgment, which can 

 only be formed by experience and observation of the habits of the tree. Trees 

 of four to five feet in height are preferable for planting, and when planted should 

 be trimmed to a single stem and cut off at eighteen inches from the ground. 

 These will throw out shoots vigorously, and frequently two or three shoots from 

 one bud. These shoots should be thinned out, leaving not more than four or 

 five, no two of which should come from one bud, nor be directly opposite. The 

 firsc shoot should start twelve inches from the ground, the others in such a 

 manner as to divide the space and make the branches balance, leaving the top 

 shoot to form the central part of the tree. 



It will be necessary to go over the trees several times the first year to remove 

 shoots that may start where not wanted, but no general heading back should be 

 done, as it tends to dwarf the tree ; though if some of the limbs are making an 

 overgrowth they should be pinched back to keep the head balanced. 



In the pruning of the second year, the first year's growth should be cut back 

 to within five or ten inches of the body of the tree, and all forks should be 

 cut out, even if it necessitates forming a new head, as it is much better to lose 

 some growth on a young tree than to take the risk of splitting down when the 

 tree begins to bear fruit. 



When the shoots start for the second year's growth, take off all that come on 

 the under side of the limbs and thin to one, two, or three, as may be needed to 

 balance the tree. 



The second year will require much more attention than the first year, in order 

 to keep off suckers and all lateral growth that may start on the under side of 

 the new limbs, the object being to make the limbs grow as nearly upright as 

 possible. The remark on heading back holds good for the second year also. 



In pruning for the third year the second year's growth should now be cut 

 back to within fifteen to twenty inches of the old wood, except the central stem, 

 which may be left twenty-four to thirty inches long, depending on the number 

 of laterals it may have thrown out. When the new shoots start they should 

 again be thinned down to two or three on each limbs, and all taken off that 

 tend to turn down or out at right angles, but do not take off the fruit spurs. 



During the third season's growth, go over the trees about three times before 

 July to remove suckers and lateral growth that may start on the lower side of 

 the limbs, as the tendency in the third year is to make an immense growth of 

 downward laterals, and these must be taken off so as to develop wood that is to 

 be left for fruit. If the orchard is on good land and has been properly irrigated 

 and cultivated there will be a few specimens of the fruit the third year, and as 

 soon as these are gathered the trees should be summer pruned for the first time, 

 care being taken that the land shall have been allowed to become moderately dry 

 so that the trees may be partially dormant. If the downward growth of the later- 

 als has been kept cut off, all that remains to be done is to cut off about one-half of 

 all this season's growth all over the tree, using the same judgment as before with 

 reference to prevailing winds and symmetry of tree. If this is properly done and 

 water at once turned on the orchard, a new growth will be made and the fruit 

 buds for next year fully developed. 



The only pruning necessary in the following winter will be to take out any 

 cross limbs and sprouts that may have been overlooked in the summer. 



After the trees begin to produce regular crops they will not grow so vigor- 

 ously, and the numerous prunings of the first three years will not be necessary, 

 as almost all can be done by summer pruning until the trees get so old that they 

 need the old wood taken out. This can be more readily done without damage 



