240 CALIFORNIA FRUITS I HOW TO GROW THEM 



to illustrate the development of the prevailing California method of 

 shaping fruit trees. Recently there has appeared a different form 

 which, though not new, is being given local names. It consists in build- 

 ing the tree with continuous ribs or leaders, a variation in the vase-form 

 which has been used in Europe for centuries, perhaps. The following 

 very clear account of it is prepared by Mr. C. F. Collins, horticultural 

 commissioner of Tulare County : 



Another method of vase form, known locally as the Sims method, has been 

 practiced for many years by William Sims, of Farmerville, and is now practiced 

 by the California Fruit Canners' Association in its large orchard near there, 

 by Hunt Bros, in their orchards near Exeter, and by many individual growers 

 in that vicinity. The trees are cut back to 18 inches at planting, and at the 

 first winter's pruning four or five of the most upright-growing branches are left 

 to form the head. These are cut to a uniform height and as great a length 

 as the season's growth will allow. On a vigorous tree this will be about 6 feet. 

 All laterals are removed from these. 



The second winter retain one strong upright branch emerging from near the 

 end of each branch of previous season's growth, and remove all laterals from 

 the tree larger than a lead pencil. Toy these main branches at a uniform 

 height of 10 or 12 feet from the ground, according to the growth made. Some- 

 times a lateral is allowed to grow from one of these main limbs to fill in an 

 open space in the outline of the tree. At the end of the second winter's 

 pruning, we have a low-headed tree with four or five main branches 10 or 12 

 feet long, and so upright that the tree is only 6 or 7 feet across the top. Enough 

 small laterals are left for abundant shade. After this each season remove all 

 large laterals, leaving only the small fruiting wood, and cut this back to the 

 required amount. 



Some of the claims made for this system are that no propping is required 

 to support the limbs, and as these are so nearly perpendicular in growth the 

 orchard is more easily worked close to the trees and the trees are more easily 

 kept down to a proper height than when pruned by the ordinary method. This 

 system certainly works admirably in the sections where it is used, and in my 

 opinion, on true peach soil, where the trees are vigorous and grow large, 

 strong limbs, it is far superior to the old vase form, but it is a question if it would 

 prove as satisfactory in many of our orchards where the trees make a more 

 feeble growth, and especially with a tree of as slender growth as the Muir. Of 

 course, with a less vigorous tree it might require three or even four years to 

 get the tree to a proper height by this method. 



Special Points on Peach Pruning. Whatever plan for low, 

 vase-form be adopted, there are points which should always be borne 

 in mind as deductions from the experience of successful peach growers 

 in all parts of the State. A few instances will be given : 



"The peach, fruiting only on wood of the previous year's growth, bears fruit 

 farther away from the body of the tree each year, and the small shoots of from 

 one-eighth to three sixteenths in diameter begin to decline when the fruit is 

 removed. To have healthy growth, all of these small branches must be removed 

 the first winter following their fruiting, when there is a greater tendency to 

 form small new growths, which may fruit the following season. In the peach, 

 it will seldom be found necessary to remove any interior branches, except suck- 

 ers, until they have produced a crop, when they will begin to decline and should 

 be removed. 



"I would certainly not cut peach trees back less than one-half of the new 

 growth in the winter pruning, and our trees are getting too large for their age 

 even with that amount of pruning. This has suggested, in other localities, sum- 

 mer pruning or shortening in, with success in some places. So far my own expe- 

 rience is favorable. It will be noticed on trees kept growing rapidly that the 

 fruit buds are near the ends of the shoots, and it seems to take away too many 



