TREATMENT OF GRAPE CUTTINGS 291 



interior a 14-inch to 16-inch cutting is better, while in the driest soils 

 of the warmest districts it is often necessary to have a cutting 18 to 20 

 inches long. For planting in the nursery a 12 or 14-inch cutting is 

 about the most convenient. If the soil of the nursery is wet and cold 

 more of the cutting should be left above ground; if, on the contrary, 

 the soil tends to be hot and dry the cutting must be planted deeper and 

 even covered up completely. 



It is not necessary, or possible, to make every cutting of exactly 

 the same length, because they should all terminate at each end at a 

 node. A vine cane consists of nodes where the buds are and internodes 

 between them. The pith is interrupted at each node by a woody parti- 

 tion (called the "diaphragm") which extends through the cane at each 

 bud. In making a cutting, therefore, we should cut exactly through 

 a bud both at the top and at the bottom. This will leave the woody 

 partitions, which will prevent decay at the bottom and drying out at 

 the top. If removed, the pits in the upper internode will be exposed 

 to alternate wetting and drying, and may decay, thus weakening or 

 killing the bud below. 



In planting, the cutting should be placed with just one bud above 

 the surface of the ground, as indicated by the dotted line in the accom- 

 panying engraving. It is a great mistake to leave more than one bud 

 out of the ground, as this increases the danger of drying out. 



Making and Caring for Cuttings. Cuttings can be taken from 

 the vines at any time after the fall of the leaf and before the spring 

 flow of sap begins. The earlier cuttings those taken before January 

 are more likely to make a successful start and after-growth than 

 those cut later in the season. 



It is common, however, to defer preparation of cuttings till the 

 pruning is done, be it early or late, and this will generally answer the 

 purpose, if care be taken to secure the cuttings immediately at the 

 priming; but if the branches be allowed to lie upon the ground for 

 days, exposed to sun, wind, or frost, before the cuttings are secured, 

 their chances of growth are seriously lessened, and a good part of the 

 failures in planting are due to such cuttings. 



Cuttings should be taken from the short- jointed, well-ripened wood 

 of the previous year's growth, cut squarely and smoothly as already 

 described. Cuttings from the outer ends of long canes are not so likely 

 to root, nor to grow so vigorously, as those from stronger wood, irom 

 three-eighths to five-eighths of an inch in diameter generally. 



Keep them dormant until the time comes to set them in the vine- 

 yard, else the tender shoots may get broken. To keep them back, place 

 them, at the pruning in trenches, about as deep as the length of the 

 cuttings, on the north side of a close board fence or a building, cover 

 with loose earth, and over that throw some straw and boards. Take 

 care that the trenches are in moist but not wet ground as too much 

 moisture rots the cuttings. If the ground has not been moist enough, 

 and the cuttings seem dry or withered, plunge them in water to within 

 three or four inches of their top, for a few days before setting, and 

 do not let them dry again before planting. 



