BUDDING THE GRAPE VINE 



293 



with the same method of budding that is common with fruit trees as 

 described in Chapter IX. Insert the bud (which is taken from a cane 

 of the previous season's growth) in the spring as soon as the bark will 

 slip well on the stock, and before the run of the sap is too strong. 

 Keep the cuttings in a cool place so their growth will be retarded, and 

 then seize upon just the right condition of the stock, insert the bud 

 under the bark of a cane of the previous season's growth, tie it around 

 with a string, and the bud starts readily without further treatment, 

 when its growth shows its ability to take the sap, the top of the stock 

 is removed. 



Herbaceous budding is also practicable. It consists of taking buds 

 from the current season's growth and working them upon canes also 

 of current growth by the usual shield budding process. Mr. Thomas 



Budding from previous season's growth. 



Casalegna of San Martin succeeds well with this under these condi- 

 tions: All buds put in from July 15 to August 15 start the same year, 

 but may be injured by fall frosts. Those put in from August 15 to 

 September 15 remain dormant until the following year, unless the 

 stock is exceptionally vigorous. Budding is most successful in the 

 month of August. The buds should be taken from canes which have 

 reached the stage of maturity indicated by the pith turning white and 

 just before the bark turns yellow. 



Grafting the Vine. Grafting in old vine roots is a simple opera- 

 tion, and is performed in various ways. The principles involved in 

 vine grafting are similar to those affecting tree grafting, as described 

 in Chapter IX. The processes employed are also similar, but the graft 

 requires less binding and waxing is dispensed with, because the graft 

 is made beneath the surface of the ground, and is, therefore, less subject 

 to accident, exposure, and drying out. 



