300 CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



Other forms of dibbles for planting vine cuttings relate particularly 

 to the setting of cutting-grafts in a light deeply-worked nursery soil, 

 but may be also used to advantage in placing cuttings in the vineyard 

 if the soil favors such a method. They are described by Mr. Bioletti 

 as follows : 



Two of the best forms of nursery dibbles are shown in the engrav- 

 ing. The first, "a" consists of a piece of round one-half-inch 

 iron, 18 inches long, furnished with a wooden handle at one end and 

 a curved double point with a V-shaped cleft in the other. The bottom 

 node of the stock is caught in the cleft and the graft forced down to 

 the desired depth. Unless the ground is very light the other dibble, "b," 

 is preferable. It consists of a sword-shaped piece of iron 18 to 20 

 inches long and 2 inches wide, furnished also with a handle. The usual 

 way of using it is to press it into the ground to the desired depth, open 

 the hole a little with a lateral thrust, withdraw it and insert the graft. 

 The dibble is then pushed into the ground again at about an inch to one 

 side of the graft and by another lateral thrust the earth is pressed 

 tightly around the graft. This takes more time than is necessary with 

 the other form of dibble, and usually done carefully there is danger of 

 failing to make the soil close around the base of the stock, which is thus 

 left surrounded by an air space. Grafts left in this way are apt to 

 become moldy and fail to make good roots. The figure "c" is a planting 

 dibble to be used with hand and foot like a spade. All such contriv- 

 ances are only suited to light soils which crumble and settle easily. On 

 heavier soils, digging holes and placing the soil around the roots or the 

 base of the cutting by hand is indispensable. 



Planting Bar and Sheep's-foot. The following methods, de- 

 scribed by Dr. Gustav Eisen as prevailing in the raisin districts of the 

 San Joaquin Valley, on sandy, loamy soils, will well illustrate similar 

 methods wherever followed : 



The planting bar consists of a bar of hard iron, sharpened at the lower end 

 and furnished with a cross handle at the other. The length of the bar is about 

 three and a half feet, width about two and a half inches, and thickness a third to 

 half an inch. If less than this the bar will bend. The planting is done by push- 

 ing the bar perpendicularly in the ground. After withdrawing it, insert the cut- 

 ting and push it down to the bottom. Fill up the hole by again inserting the bar 

 in the ground clos* by and pressing the flat side against the hole. 



The sheep's-foot consists of a round rod with cross-handle at the upper end. 

 The lower end of the rod is slightly flattened, bent and forked. The planting 

 is done by fitting the forked end over the butt-end of the cutting, and immedi- 

 ately pushing cutting and rod together to the desired depth in the soil. A slight 

 twist is now given to the sheep's-foot. This loosens it from the cutting and 

 allows it to be withdrawn. A tamp with the foot fills the hole. Great care must 

 be taken in withdrawing the sheep's-foot, lest in doing so the cutting should be 

 lifted also, and this will leave a fatal air chamber at the lower end. The slight 

 twist given the rod before withdrawing loosens it and leaves the cutting 

 undisturbed. 



For planting in dry situations some careful planters run water 

 and fine earth into the hole made by the bar after inserting the cutting ; 

 others run in fine sand dry and then pour on water. In using water 

 in this way one must take care that he uses sand or sandy earth, and 

 not clay, for a succeeding dry spell may bake it, and the cutting will be 

 worse off than if not puddled. 



