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CALIFORNIA FRUITS I HOW TO GROW THEM 



Any vines which have made a strong growth and possess at least 

 one cane of which sufficient length is well ripened may be pruned 

 for tying up. All the canes are removed entirely, except the strongest, 

 and this is cut back to 10, 15, or 18 inches, according to the height at 

 which it is intended to head the vine (see Fig. 2, a). The top cut is 

 made through a bud, just as in making cuttings. This will facilitate 

 tying up and insure the healthy growth of the top bud. 



Sometimes, even when the vine has made sufficient growth, the 

 canes are prostrate or crooked and none can be tied up straight to the 

 stake. In this case the vine must be pruned like a weak vine that is, 

 thinned to one cane and this cane cut back to two buds. 



Fig. 2. Treatment of an average vine during the third season or of^a 

 vigorous vine during the second. 



a. Vine pruned to one cane and tied to stake. 



b. Removal of sucker (S) and lower shoots (W) in spring. 



c. Vine in summer at time of pinching. 



In no case should two canes of any length be left, and in all cases 

 where it is impossible to obtain the full length of well-ripened wood for 

 tying up, the cane should be cut back to two buds. It is very bad prac- 

 tice to leave some of the canes of intermediate length, as this causes 

 the vines to head out at various heights and produces an irregularity of 

 shape which can never be remedied and which interferes with regular 

 pruning, cultivation and other vineyard work. 



The idea to be kept in mind is to cut back each winter nearly to the 

 ground that is, to two buds until a cane is produced with a length 

 of well-ripened wood and good buds equal to the height at which the 

 vine is to be headed. It is very important that this cane should be 



