368 CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



There is a variation in practice in cutting back the stock above the 

 bud. Instead rf cutting back at once, heroically, as just described, some 

 girdle the branch or cut back part of the top at a distance above the 

 bud, cutting down to the bud after it shows good strong growth, tying 

 the young growth to the stub at first to protect it. Others insert the 

 bud in the fall, cutting back to start the bud after the fruit on the old 

 top is gathered. It is very important to watch for suckers below the 

 bud and remove, to pinch them back, to make a bunch of leaves. The 

 growth from the bud itself often needs pinching to induce low branch- 

 ing. Twig-budding can also be used on the orange by the method 

 already described for the olive. 



Budding in old trees is best done in the spring, when the sap flow 

 is strong, but, as stated, can be done in the fall and the bud allowed to 

 lie dormant until spring. 



PLANTING ORANGES IN ORCHARD 



As already stated, orange trees are planted out a greater age than 

 deciduous' fruit trees. Budded trees are given one or two years' 

 growth in nursery and one or two years' growth on the bud, which, 

 added to the year in seed bed, makes them three to four years of age 

 from the sowing of the seed. Seedlings, to be planted out as such, 

 are allowed two years' growth in the nursery, which makes them three 

 years old from the seed. For this length of time and the unusual 

 care involved in their growth, taking up from nursery and the prepara- 

 tion for carriage, orange trees of planting age are of much greater 

 cost than deciduous fruit trees. 



Since the growing of seedlings for their fruit has practically ceased, 

 the distance between the trees in orchard planting has ranged from 

 twenty to twenty-four feet. All the varieties now propagated are quick 

 to bear fruit, and if properly shaped will find ample space in these 

 distances the greater distance on the richer soil as a rule. 



Preparation of land for orange planting by deep and thorough cul- 

 tivation and laying off to secure straight rows by the square, quincunx, 

 and hexagonal methods have been quite fully discussed in Chapter X, 

 and Chapter XI has suggestions for planting, many of which are 

 applicable to the setting of orange trees. There are, however, special 

 methods employed in lifting the orange trees from nursery rows and 

 in placing them in permanent position, which will be outlined. 



The orange, in common with other evergreen trees, is exceedingly 

 sensitive to exposure of its roots, and for this reason the handling of 

 the young trees is very different from that of ordinary orchard trees. 

 Three ways are employed for securing this constant moisture of the 

 roots, as follows: 



Packing in Wet Straw. As fast as the trees are lifted from the 

 nursery ground by digging carefully so as to loosen and secure all the 

 roots possible, they are packed in damp and partially rotten straw, 



