370 CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



is too dry, exposure of the roots, or careless planting, will consign the 

 tree to a slow, sickly growth, and often kill it outright. 



Cutting Back at Transplanting. The rule of reducing the top 

 to compensate for the loss of roots, is vital in moving orange trees, 

 but sometimes cutting back is carried too far and subsequent growth 

 is checked rather than promoted. Some growers cut back the young 

 trees a little while before lifting them from the nursery. Some take off 

 all leaves after planting out, and claim that growth starts sooner and 

 more strongly, but it is doubtfull whether defoliation is advisable, except 

 in case of wilting, when it is necessary. 



Digging Holes and Setting Trees. The same considerations 

 which require extra care in lifting trees for nursery, rule in putting 

 them in permanent place. All authorities on the subject specify excep- 

 tional care in preparing the tree holes as a profitable investment on 

 the part of the planter. Large and deep holes are commended, provided 

 the planting is done in a deep, free soil. Deep holes would be more 

 injurious than beneficial in a tight sub-soil, unless drainage were 

 furnished, but there are good orange trees now bearing in such places 

 good enough at least to be an ornament and acceptable fruit pro- 

 ducers for family use. 



On large-scale planting in deeply prepared soils, holes large enough 

 to allow good spreading of the roots are sufficient. Handling the soil 

 at planting has been fully described in Chapter XI, and the importance 

 of bringing the soil into firm contact with the roots has been urged. 

 The use of water in planting citrus fruit trees is especially desirable. 

 Trans-planting should be done just as the growth is starting in the late 

 spring 1 or early summer, and this is the opening of the dry season and 

 rains can not be expected. Therefore, when the roots are arranged and 

 the top soil lightly trampled around them, water is run in the hole and 

 the earth compacted around the roots by water settling. After the 

 water has settled away, the hole is filled and the surface left loose to 

 prevent evaporation. 



These instructions apply to the planting out of trees which are 

 taken up with long roots and puddled. In planting out balled trees, 

 the sack is not removed, but after the tree is embedded in the earth, 

 the tying rope is cut. The sack soon decays in the soil. 



Orange trees can be successfully transplanted at different times 

 of the year, but the best time, as just stated, is after the ground gets 

 well warmed by the spring sunshine. The date at which this condition 

 arrives depends upon locality. Experience seems to indicate that the 

 young orange tree is in best condition to transplant just as the new 

 growth is starting out, and preferably when it has not grown out more 

 than two inches. In setting the tree, it should stand not lower than in 

 the nursery. Root injury is sometimes due to deep planting. 



Great care must be taken that transplanted orange trees do not 

 become dry after planting. The methods of irrigation are described 

 in Chapter XV. Good cultivation should also attend the orange from 

 its first planting onward. This subject is fully discussed in Chapter 

 XIII. 



