374 CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



BUILDING DOWN AND NOT SAGGING DOWN 



It is perfectly feasible and rational to secure a good form of low 

 tree without removal of large branches and without relying upon the 

 sag of the branches from a high head. It requires rather more watch- 

 fulness and attention and study of the subject than some growers desire 

 to give, but the results when attained are very satisfactory. The method 

 is that of J. H. Reed, of Riverside, and has been followed by him for 

 a number of years with his own orchard and others of which he has 

 had charge. It will be found readily intelligible with the help of the 

 sketches. Mr. Reed would begin with a young nursery tree like that 

 already shown in Fig. 1. He does not believe in much cutting back 

 before planting providing a fair amount of roots are left in the ball at 

 transplanting. If the tree has been properly planted and cared for, it 

 will soon begin to put out new growth, usually first along the stem, the 

 strongest growth being lowest down. As many of these young branches 

 along the stem as are not desired for permanent branches, are rubbed 

 off, the earlier the better, at least before woody fiber is deposited in 

 them. Mr. Reed rubs off promptly all below a point about two feet 

 from the ground, if there is a prospect of getting sufficient good 

 branches above that point. If not he saves them down to eight or even 

 twelve inches lower if need be. 



Mr. Reed's idea is to build the head along a considerable length of 

 the trunk and not have the branches bunched at the top, and this is 

 the same idea that is urged in the development of the trunk of the 

 deciduous fruit tree in Chapter XII. He finds it impossible to do this 

 in the nursery because if it is attempted to form a head 18 or 24 inches 

 along the upper portion of the stem instead of one bunched near the 

 top of it, the lower branches will appropriate most of the sap and the 

 upper portion will not be well developed ; while if this upper story is 

 well established in the nursery the lower portion can be built on with- 

 out detriment to the upper, if nutriment sufficient for both is furnished. 

 Fig. 4 will show approximately the branch-form of the young tree at 

 about six months from planting and the shoots with which the building- 

 down is begun. The first step is to check the drooping habit. Upon 

 this point Mr. Reed says : 



The common notion that the branch of the Navel orange naturally tends 

 down is a mistake which grows out of the fact that in its rapid growth the new 

 part of the stems and large leaves are so loaded with sap that they pull the stems 

 from their natural upright position, and, unless relieved, hold them there till the 

 deposit of woody fiber fixes the branches in the drooping or unnatural position. 

 If the tips of these rapidly growing branches, with their heavy leaves be clipped 

 at the right time, the branches will spring back to the erect position, where they 

 will remain to send out new branchlets. It is wonderful how the orange tree can 

 be molded like a thing of wax by pinching and clipping here and there, if done 

 at the right time. 



Fig. 5 shows the result of this clipping of heavy shoots to allow 

 them to assume a more upright growth and the encouragement of new 

 shoots below the two-foot mark. Fig. 6 gives the branch form of a 

 five-year-old tree, with its lower story of bearing wood well developed, 



