406 CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



dirt; if not quite deep enough in places, scoop out a shovelful. Aim, in prepar- 

 ing the ground with plow and smoother, to leave it dishing each way toward 

 the row of young plants, so that irrigating water turned in at the upper end will 

 run along the row of plants as in a trough. Aim to have the ground around the 

 set plants a few inches below the general level of the land. After the plants are 

 all set in a row, go along with a rake if there are but a few plants, or with a 

 horse-hoe is there are many, and fill in the trench between the plants. It is a 

 pleasure to set out plants in this way, and such deep, rich, well-stirred soil 

 delights the plant roots, so that they grow rapidly in every direction, and the 

 plants throw up their heads in a manner entirely satisfactory to all concerned. 

 If the ground is dry, or there is no rain soon after setting out the plants, irrigat- 

 ing water should be turned down the row or at least a quart or two of water 

 poured around each plant; then, before the soil hardens, stir it well with cultivator 

 and hoe. All future care resolves itself into frequent waterings and frequent 

 stirrings of the soil. Allow no weeds to appear, and keep three inches of surface 

 soil well loosened with the horse and hoes. These small fruits require frequent 

 waterings, especially when forming fruit and during the fruiting season. 



Cultivation. Thorough cultivation of the surface soil is essen- 

 tial for retention of moisture. After the plants attain size, cultivation 

 should be secured with as shallow-cutting tools as possible so as to 

 prevent injury to the roots, which not only weakens the plant, but 

 increases the growth of suckers between the rows. A horse-hoe with a 

 long knife running horizontally, or with duck-foot teeth, well sharpened, 

 answers well in keeping the ground clear of weeds and suckers, and the 

 surface loose. Due regard must, however, be paid to securing sufficient 

 depth in this surface layer to prevent the soil beneath baking hard and 

 drying out, as discussed in the chapter on cultivation. 



Frequency of cultivation depends upon irrigation, for the cultivator 

 must always follow the application of water. The spaces in the row 

 which can not be reached with the cultivator must be kept clean from 

 weeds, and free from baking, by the use of the hoe. It is advisable 

 that the cultivation be the cleanest possible, for moisture exhaustion by 

 weeds can not be afforded. 



Pruning and Training. There is a little difference in the way 

 of training blackberries practiced in this State. Of course this does 

 not include the "let alone" system, which is not followed by any good 

 grower. The difference lies mainly in the use or disuse of artificial 

 supports for the canes. In either case the pruning of the canes is 

 similar in kind but different in degree, for if no supports are used, the 

 canes are headed lower. 



At planting out, cut back the cane to near the surface of the ground 

 and mark the plant with a small stake. At first the top growth should 

 not be checked, but when new canes grow out strongly they should be 

 pinched at the tip to force out lateral branches for fruiting the next 

 year. Those who intend to tie canes to a stake or trellis let them attain 

 a height of five or six feet before pinching off the terminal bud ; those 

 who intend to teach the cane to stand alone pinch when it is about four 

 feet high. All agree to pinch off the ends of the lateral branches at 

 about eight to twelve inches from the main stem. This pinching of 

 blackberry canes may be done by the watchful grower of a few plants, 

 with the thumb and finger, but thrifty blackberry plants are such rapid 

 cane growers that in large plantations cutting back is often done with 

 a sickle or corn hook or sharp butcher-knife, several times in the course 



