78 CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



for the inner barks of root and scion, and at the same time to inter- 

 lock the two more firmly. In putting the two together, if the stock 

 is slightly larger than the scion, be sure to put the scion so that the 

 inner bark contact is made, and this will bring the scion a little to 

 one side of the center. Bind with the wax band, and paint with wax 

 as in the case of the former graft. 



In large nursery practice expert grafters have come of late years 

 to make this root graft without wax, merely tying in the graft. For 

 amateur work at home it is much safer to use the wax. 



Grafting in the root, where the root is much larger than the scion, 

 may be done without splitting the root by cutting or sawing out a 

 triangular piece on the side of the root (smoothing the saw-cut with 

 a sharp knife) cutting the scion to fit and trusting to a strong band 

 to hold it in place. This graft is used for grafting in grape roots, 

 also, with root grafting the walnut, and, by some, in ordinary top 

 grafting on other trees. 



Planting Out Root Grafts. This root grafting can be done in the 

 winter before it is time to plant out, and the grafts can be made a 

 few at a time, as convenient. The grafts, then, as fast as prepared, 

 should be bedded in moist sand in the cellar, and will make their 

 contact firm, and even start to growing a little. In planting out in 

 the nursery rows be sure the earth is firmed well around the root, 

 otherwise many will be lost. Plant ten or twelve inches apart in the 

 rows. Keep the weeds down and the soil well cultivated and loose 

 on the surface, and the first season's growth will give a tree fit for 

 planting out in orchard in the coming winter. For irrigation the 

 rules already given for the growth of seedlings for budding will 

 apply. 



PRUNING TREES IN NURSERY 



As for other treatment of the trees (either from bud or root graft) 

 in nursery during the first year, there is some difference of opinion 

 and practice. If the young tree will be content to make a straight 

 switch with good buds in the axils of the leaves, but no laterals 

 thrown out, it will be in the best possible shape for planting in the 

 orchard, and gives the planter a chance to make the head at what- 

 ever height suits him, and to secure uniformity through the orchard. 

 All trees will not, however, be content with this growth, but will 

 push out laterals all along the stem. Even in this case some let the 

 whole growth go for the planter to treat as he thinks best. Another 

 plan is to go over the nursery when the young stock is about two 

 feet high and pinch back the laterals part way, but retaining the 

 leaves nearest the stem to shade the stem. This pinching back is 

 done from the ground up to a height of one to one and a half feet, and 

 above that the growth is left to take its natural course, to be cut as 

 desired when the head of the tree is formed. Pinching back develops 

 buds near the stem and gives the planter a better chance to head the 

 tree lower if he likes. Another practice which prevails to some ex- 

 tent, is to pinch off the terminal bud when the young tree has reached 



