jj4 CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



choice must be made between heading the tree higher up, where the 

 buds are, or cutting back without regard to buds, trusting to the 

 development of latent buds at the right place, or to the growth of 

 a shoot from below, which can be cut back to form a head the fol- 

 lowing year. It is for this reason, among others, that planters prefer 

 a yearling tree which has not branched, but has good buds all along 

 the stem. Peaches and apricots usually branch in the nursery, but 

 usually have dormant buds at the bases of such branches which can 

 be employed in making new growth where it is desired. 



After cutting back at planting, the shoots desired to form the 

 head are allowed to make their full growth without interference. 

 All shoots not desired for branches are pinched off at the tips, after 

 growing out two or three inches, leaving the bunch of leaves to shade 

 the trunk and contribute to its stouter growth. Constant watchful- 

 ness is necessary to pinch off the tips of undesirable branches all 

 the first summer. 



First Pruning. In the winter following planting, the shoots of 

 the previous season's growth are cut back to about ten or twelve 

 inches from their junction with the stem. Some prefer to cut shorter, 

 but this is apt to huddle the branches too close together when they 

 get old and stout. Growers, however, do not agree on the exact 

 length which these future main branches should be left at first 

 pruning. 



If, during the first summer's growth, all shoots except the num- 

 ber desired to form the head have been pinched back, the first winter 

 pruning consists only in cutting back the main branches. If laterals 

 have grown on the parts of these branches which are to be left on 

 the tree, they should be cut back to a bud or two. Some growers 

 practice cutting away all such laterals cleanly because they are too 

 young to bear fruit, but it is better to shorten and retain at least a 

 part of them and, when growth starts, pinch the tips after throwing 

 out a few leaves to shade and thicken the branches, just as the short 

 growths left the previous summer serve the main stem. These leaf- 

 bearing stubs on young trees should generally be cleanly removed 

 at the following winter pruning. 



Second Pruning. During the second summer it is usual to allow 

 two branches to grow from each of the main branches cut back at 

 the previous winter pruning, and to pinch off all others, as described. 

 These branches are allowed to run out their full growth, except 

 where excessive growth is made, and then it is repressed by summer 

 pruning. This is done with the apricot in the warmer parts of the 

 State, as will be considered at length in the chapter on that fruit. 

 Usually, however, the main branches are untouched during the 

 second summer's growth unless some are running out so far as to 

 make the tree lop-sided. During the following winter the main 

 branches are cut back from one-half to two-thirds of the growth 

 they have made, and if too many strong laterals have grown below 

 this point, some are shortened, others are removed entirely where 

 they are apt to cross or crowd each other or to interfere with culti- 

 vation. It is not desirable, however, that all small growth should 



