CUTTING TO DIRECT GROWTH }21 



has a few moments' leisure than to do the work thoroughly and 

 systematically. The result is that the regular winter pruning is the 

 main operation for tree shaping in this State. 



There is such a great difference in opinion about summer pruning 

 that it will be very difficult to make any assertions about it which 

 will not be disputed. Much of this difference comes, of course, from 

 different conditions prevailing in different trees and in different 

 parts of the State, and some of these will be met, as already prom- 

 ised, in following chapters. Leaving these wholly out of considera- 

 tion at this time, it is safe to advise those who wish to secure 

 symmetry of any particular form in any kind of tree, that they can 

 resort to summer pinching with advantage, and can sometimes to 

 advantage remove wood too large for the thumb and ringer to sever. 



Constant watchfulness should be maintained for adventitious 

 shoots starting out on stem on limb at points where branches are not 

 desired. Wherever they start out strongly, they should be pinched, 

 or entirely removed, according to the best judgment to be formed in 

 each case. They should not be allowed to divert the sap from the 

 fruiting wood to make the generally coarse and sterile wood which 

 is characteristic of them. Suckers which properly, according to 

 Downing, are "shoots sent up from the root or from parts of the 

 stem below the surface of the soil," should be removed whenever dis- 

 covered. In common California parlance the term "sucker" is used 

 as a synonym for "water-sprout" and signifies undesirable shooting 

 from any part of the tree or vine. Early in the growth of these 

 ghoots, they can be pulled from the bark, leaving only a clean, 

 round hole. Later they must be cut, for removal by pulling will tear 

 the bark to which they are attached. 



CUTTING TO A BUD 



Whatever may be used to make the cut, it is important to sever 

 the twig or skoot at that distance from a wood bud which gives that 

 bud the best chance to grow well, and at the same time facilitates 

 the healing and complete obliteration of the scar. Cutting too far 

 from the bud leaves a stub which dies back, and is likely to carry 

 decay into the pith and thence down into the limb. Cutting too close 

 to the bud or carrying the slope down too far behind it, does not 

 give it enough live wood to carry it, and it makes a weak growth. 

 In cutting to a bud it is desirable to hold the shears so that the cut 

 shall be from the sides of the shoot over the bud. 



Cutting to inside buds with trees of spreading habit, and to out- 

 side buds with upright growers, or to a side bud when lateral exten- 

 sion is desired, should always be remembered as a means of throw- 

 ing new growth in the direction demanded by symmetry and equal 

 occupation of the space allotted to the tree. This is one respect in 

 which study of the habit of the tree suggests proper practice. 



COVERING WOUNDS 



Whenever wood is cut with so great diameter that it will not 

 grow over in one season, the wound should be coated with some- 



