1? . CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



early part of the growing season. In cutting back, of course, those 

 stumps should be left to support new branches which will secure the 

 best balance and symmetry in the new head. When the new growth 

 starts there generally appear many more shoots than are desirable, 

 and selection of the best-placed and most vigorous should be made, 

 the others either being rubbed off in the bud or pinched back when 

 a few leaves are put out. In cutting back trees, the exposed trunk 

 and branch stumps should be wrapped in old sacking, or carefully 

 whitewashed as protection from sunburn. 



In removing large limbs it is desirable that the cut should be 

 made in the right place so as to secure quick covering of the scar 

 with new growth. Cutting so as to leave a long stub results in an 

 unsightly piece of dead wood on the tree, and this, in decaying, 

 carries the decay deep into the center of the trunk or branch. Cut- 

 ting too close prevents covering with the new bark, and also results 

 in a hole in the trunk or branch. Cutting just to the right mark, 

 which is the outer edge of the little collar or swelling which will be 

 found at the base of all branches, enables the wound to grow over 

 quickly, and if the wound is properly treated when cut, there will 

 be no decay, and the wound will soon be obliterated. Old cavities 

 in trunks or large branches should be excavated of all decaying 

 material down to sound wood and filled with Portland cement, if 

 small, and with concrete made of one part of cement to three parts 

 of sharp sand, if the cavity is of considerable size. The filling should 

 be firmly tamped into place and when it has hardened should be 

 covered with hot asphaltum. 



Renewal of an old tree must be undertaken with a careful study 

 of its present form and character, and it should be done by an ex- 

 perienced pruner who has a good idea of what good form and thrift 

 are and will work over each tree to meet its individual needs and 

 possibilities. Generally speaking, the main efforts in such pruning 

 are four (1) to saw off cleanly all stubs from broken branches ; (2) 

 to remove branches which are weak or dead or are running across 

 others which are better to keep or which are making the tree too 

 dense and brushy; (3) to shorten to well placed laterals, branches 

 which are growing downward or sidewise so as to interfere with 

 light and space belong to other branches or interfere with cultivation 

 or other orchard operations; (4) to remove, if otherwise possible, 

 branches which are throwing the tree out of shape and likely to 

 induce breakage or blowing over. 



In amputating large branches, an undercut with the saw should 

 be made first so that the bark shall not be torn as the branch falls. 

 Another good way is to saw off first at a distance from the final cut, 

 and then saw off smoothly at the right place when the weight is 

 removed. 



Trees sometimes become "hide-bound," as it is called. The bark 

 gets dry and tough, and apparently cannot expand as the growth 

 of the tree demands. Slitting such trees here and there up and 

 down the trunk and main limbs with a sharp knife seems to have 

 good effect, for often in three months the cut opens half an inch, 

 and a fine, clear bark, with an increase of growth, results. Bark- 



