PRUNING THE APPLE 203 



Yellow Bellflower, resent heavy pruning after coming into bear- 

 ing, and slow growers like the Yellow Newtown Pippin, do not need 

 it. On the other hand, varieties like the Winesap and Smith's Cider 

 are apt to make long slim branches and bear at the ends. This can 

 be corrected by cutting back to secure more short shoots which will 

 bear better fruit. Some varieties, like the Jonathan, will make 

 plenty of short spurs under this treatment, while others, like Rome 

 Beauty and Rhode Island Greening, are persistent tip-bearers, but 

 can be gradually drawn in without reducing the crop too much. 

 The grower must study his varieties not only with reference to this 

 but in forming the tree, cutting to an inside bud all varieties which 

 naturally take a horizontal direction, and cutting to an outside bud 

 varieties which have a tendency to send up tall, straight shoots. 

 By this throwing the new growth upward in the first case, and 

 outward in the second, one can shape each kind to greater symmetry 

 and strength for fruit carrying, and bring up all spreading varieties 

 to a form which admits near approach of the plow and cultivator. 

 This manner of shaping the tree must continue as long as seems 

 necessary to secure a tree which will come to bearing age shapely 

 and strong, and within reach. 



Bearing trees should not be allowed to carry too many branches, 

 and pruning will largely consists of thinning out surplus shoots and 

 removing interference between branches. It is not desirable to 

 shorten in the apple as is done with the apricot and peach. Some 

 growers do not cut back after the third year. 



A successful treatment of bearing trees, long practiced in the 

 Sebastopol district, is described by Mr. W. I. Newcomb as follows : 



While trees are young, their new growth is cut back one-half to two- 

 thirds. When they become older they are not topped at all to speak of. 



As long as you cut the ends off from branches, they will grow more new 

 wood; if you leave them alone, their tendency is more to very slow growth 

 and heavier fruiting down on the old wood. When thinning is necessary, 

 cut off the entire branch. 



Wood is allowed to grow quite thickly in the center of the older trees, but 

 is thinned out to prevent rubbing, however. Fruit spurs are induced to set in 

 the body of the tree rather than far out on the limbs where a heavy load is 

 dangerous to the tree and fruit too. Some spurs on the old trees have 

 borne half a dozen crops each, and will continue. 



Summer Pruning. Summer pruning to reduce wood growth and 

 promote bearing is practiced to a limited extent in some districts 

 upon varieties inclined to shy bearing. In regions of the most in- 

 tense summer heat, less pruning is admissible than in the coast and 

 elevated regions. It is necessary that the foliage be dense to protect 

 the tree and the fruit from sunburn. Nor does the tree seem to 

 relish cutting back. Slight thining out if the tree becomes too 

 brushy, seems to be the best treatment in some of the hot valleys. 



In summer pruning to secure form and earlier fruiting of the 

 young tree, there is much variation in method. Very systematic 

 work is credited to Mr. J. W. Fulton of Yucaipa, San Bernardino 

 County, as follows : 



