244 



CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



growth from the bud proceed as it chooses, and when the yearling 

 is set in orchard, cut back to a single bud the laterals which are de- 

 sired to form the head and removing others. If there is a dormant 

 bud on the stem where a branch is desired and it is obstinate in not 

 starting, a cross-cut through the bark just above it may concentrate 

 pressure and force it out. Proper starting of the young tree is pro- 

 moted by cutting away cleanly all laterals which have grown from 

 stem-buds. In such cutting back the dormant buds at the base of 

 such laterals should be preserved. The development of form from 

 a yearling branched in the nursery is illustrated in Chapter XII. 



Planting Dormant Buds. The chapter on planting describes the 

 planting of yearling trees. The lifting of dormant buds from the 

 home nursery and planting in orchard is described by P. W. Butler, 

 of Placer County, as follows : 



Have the ground prepared and stakes placed in position in the orchard 

 in early February, if possible, and begin the planting at once, while the 

 trees are in dormant bud. Take no more trees from the nursery than can 

 be planted in half a day. Plow a furrow on each side of the row, six inches 

 from the trees, turning the soil from them, then two men with heavy spades 

 or shovels, one on each side of the tree, can readily take it up without 

 breaking many of the roots; and what are so broken should be smoothly 

 trimmed with a sharp knife. Place the trees in a tub of water, near where 

 they are to be planted, and take them from it only a few at a time. Put 

 them in a basket or box and cover with wet sack, that they may be kept 

 moist until- placed in the ground. 



On planting place the bud one inch below the level of the ground, but 

 do not cover it until after it has grown to the height of a few inches. The 

 stock should be cut off at the bud with a thin, sharp knife (and not with 

 shears, as is often done, as the latter method will sometimes split the 

 tree), when it will take in moisture and not heal readily. 



Some growers do not cut back the young seedling tree until 

 growth has started out well on the dormant bud, girdling the bark 

 above the bud to force its growth. The tender shoot is protected 

 somewhat by the old stem to which it can be tied. The removal of 

 the old stem should not be too long delayed, for the wound by its 

 amputation should heal over the first summer. 



Rather more care is needed in handling dormant buds both in 

 planting and in their young life in the orchard. Lookout must be 

 kept for suckers and against injury in cultivation. Success with 

 dormant buds is notable. In good hands they commonly outgrow 

 yearlings planted at the same time, and the percentage of loss from 

 failure of the bud to start is very small. Of course, every bud 

 should be examined before planting, to see that it has a healthy 

 color. 



In the selection of peach trees for planting, a clean, healthy root 

 only should be taken. During recent years there have been a good 

 many young roots affected with knots or swellings from some ob- 

 scure cause. Such trees should be burned. If planted, the knot 

 sometimes grows to an enormous size and little or no top growth is 

 made. 



