CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



oped to supply water. In these conditions January or February are 

 perhaps the best months for planting. In any case, it is important 

 that the roots shall start as soon as or sooner than the leaves, and 

 the cuttings should be handled with this object in view. 



Heat and water are necessary to start either roots or buds. We 

 can delay either by keeping the cuttings dry and cool or hasten 

 either by keeping them moist and warm. Too much heat may cause 

 the cuttings to decay. There is little danger from cold, even freez- 

 ing, if the cuttings are mature. Too much water will cause rapid 

 decay, especially at high temperatures. Dryness is less dangerous, 

 especially at low temperatures. 



Callusing Cuttings. In view of these facts, the best way of han- 

 dling the cuttings before planting seems to be to bury them in mod- 

 erately dry sand in a cool place until about two to three weeks before 

 planting, then to moisten the sand, and increase its temperature 

 until planting commences. 



A good way to do this is to place a pile of sand in a sunny place 

 early in the season while dry sand can be obtained. The pile should 

 be protected from surface water by means of a shallow surrounding 

 trench. The moisture can be controlled by sprinkling if necessary or 

 by covering with boards or canvas in case of too much rain. 



The cuttings, as soon as made, are put up in bundles of 100 to 

 200, well tied and with the butts all level. These bundles are then 

 buried carefully and regularly in the sand pile with the butts up 

 and all at the same level. Sand should be packed in between the 

 bundles and as much as possible between the cuttings in the bundles, 

 between 3 and 4 inches of sand should then be placed over the butts 

 of the cuttings, making a perfectly level bed. 



To protect the cuttings from moisture and heat and so to keep 

 them dormant the sand should then be well covered with 12 to 18 

 inches of straw, chaff, or similar material. 



About two or three weeks before planting is to commence the 

 straw covering should be removed and the 4-inch top layer of sand 

 thoroughly moistened by sprinkling. The moisture and the heat 

 from the sun will then start the process of root formation. The 

 sand must be closely watched and sprinkled as often as is necessary 

 to prevent drying, only enough water being used to moisten the top 

 layer of sand. The drier the tops of the cuttings, which are at the 

 bottom of the sand pile, the longer they will remain dormant. 



After seven to ten days the butts of the cuttings should be exam- 

 ined every few days. As soon as they show signs of white healing 

 tissue (callus) and checking of the joint where the roots are forming 

 they are ready to plant. Planting should not be delayed until roots 

 appear, as these roots will be destroyed in planting and others will 

 have to form. 



When planting extends over several weeks, the removal of the 

 sand layer should be gradual and at the same rate as the planting 

 will take place so that the cuttings when planted will all be in the 

 proper condition. 



This method is excellent and results in a large percentage of 

 rooted vines and large growth. It is also dangerous because unless 



