GROWING ROOTED VINES 297 



carefully and skillfully carried out the cuttings may be injured and 

 not grow at all. 



Unless there is certainty of the method being properly carried 

 out it is best simply to bury the cuttings in moderately dry sand in 

 a cool place protected from sun and rain. A cellar, shed, or other 

 shady place is suitable. 



Planting Cuttings in Nursery. The cuttings may be planted in 

 the nursery by means of spades and shovels, assisted sometimes by 

 the use of a plow or other means, according to the character of the 

 soil, the number of cuttings to plant, and the means available. The 

 mechanical details will vary in each case. In all cases, however, cer- 

 tain conditions must be observed to get the best results. 



The soil should be fairly rich. The texture is not of great impor- 

 tance, though excessively sandy or very heavy soils are not suitable. 

 The soil should be well plowed or subsoiled to a depth of at least 12 

 inches, unless naturally open and loose. It should be well graded so 

 that it can be easily and regularly irrigated. 



If the cuttings have been callused in the way described, they 

 should be removed from the sand just before planting and carefully 

 protected from drying by being placed in planting cans or boxes 

 and covered with wet sacks. They should not be exposed to the sun 

 or dry air for more than a few minutes, even when planting. 



If the cuttings have been kept in dry sand, they should be placed 

 in water for 24 to 48 hours before planting. This is best done by 

 placing them in five-gallon oil cans filled with water, where they 

 should remain until taken to the field for planting. 



They should be planted with the second bud level with the 

 ground, that is, with one full joint above the surface. A line or long 

 batten should be used to insure the row being straight. This much 

 simplifies cultivation and hoeing. The soil should be firmed around 

 the butts and unless quite moist settled with water when the trench 

 is about three-fourths full. The soil should then be brought up 

 around the cuttings almost to the top bud by hand or a suitable im- 

 plement so that each row of cuttings is in the middle of a slight 

 ridge. This facilitates irrigation. 



If water has been run in while planting, no irrigation will be 

 needed for about two weeks. Otherwise the nursery should be 

 irrigated within a day or two after planting. Subsequent irrigation 

 will depend on the soil and the climate, but it should be relatively 

 frequent during the first part of the season so as to start growth 

 early and to keep it going until the vines have made a top growth of 

 12 or more inches and have developed a good root system that will 

 make them less sensitive to drying out. 



Irrigation should stop early enough to prevent late growth. 

 About the beginning or middle of September the tips should cease 

 to make new growth and the canes should commence to show the 

 brown of mature wood at the base. Usually no irrigation should be 

 given after the last days of August. 



Digging and Care of Rooted Vines. The vines may be dug as 

 soon as they have dropped their leaves or may be left in the ground 



