298 CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



until they are needed for planting. The ground should be moist 

 down to the roots, but not wet when the vines are dug. All that are 

 fit to plant should be sorted into two classes, number 1 and number 

 2. Number 1 vines are those which have made a well ripened top 

 growth of at least 6 inches, have healthy roots of at least one-eighth 

 inch diameter at the bottom, and show no dead areas or mechanical 

 injuries on the part of the vine that represents the qriginal cutting. 

 Number 2 vines are those having a smaller growth but well matured 

 wood and no serious defects. Vines showing black knot, nematodes, 

 serious mechanical injuries, or little or no mature wood or roots 

 should be rejected. 



The roots are tied up in bundles of 50 to 100, according to size, 

 and the tops and roots shortened with a broad axe to 4 or 5 inches 

 after tying. Each bundle should be furnished with a good label 

 showing variety, number, and grade. They should not be exposed 

 much to the sun and should be buried in moist sand the day they are 

 dug. If they are to be kept long they should be buried in a shady 

 place or shed. They should be kept as cool as possible until planted 

 and should be planted before buds or roots have started to swell or 

 to grow. In hauling or shipping they should be well protected from 

 drying by means of wet sacks or wet straw if left out of the ground 

 for more than two days. 



BUDDING AND GRAFTING THE GRAPE VINE 



Working over the grape vine is largely practised in this State 

 and is easily accomplished. The occasion is twofold: Replacing 

 undesirable varieties with those of better quality, or in better market 

 demand, and in bringing the vinifera varieties upon roots which 

 resist the attacks of the phylloxera. The latter will be mentioned 

 presently. 



Budding the Grape. Buds can be readily made to grow in grape 

 canes, though budding is not largely used. Success can be had with 

 the same method of budding that is common with fruit trees as 

 described in Chapter IX. Insert the bud (which is taken from a 

 cane of the previous season's growth) in the spring as soon as the 

 bark will slip well on the stock, and before the run of the sap is too 

 strong. Keep the cuttings in a cool place so their growth will be 

 retarded, and then seize upon just the right condition of the stock, 

 insert the bud under the bark of a cane of last season's growth, 

 tie it around with a string, and the bud starts readily without 

 further treatment; when its growth shows its ability to take the 

 sap, the top of the stock is removed. 



Herbaceous budding is also practicable. It consists of taking 

 buds from the current season's growth and working them upon 

 canes also of current growth by the usual shield budding process. 

 Mr. Thomas Casalegna of San Martin succeeds well with this under 

 these conditions: All buds put in from July 15 to August 15 start 

 the same year, but may be injured by fall frosts. Those put in 

 from August 15 to September 15 remain dormant until the following 



