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CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



Any vines which have made a strong growth and possess at least 

 one cane of which sufficient length is well ripened, may be pruned 

 for tying up. All the canes are removed entirely, except the strong- 

 est, and this is cut back to 10, 15, or 18 inches, according to the 

 height at which it is intended to head the vine. The top cut is made 

 through a bud, just as in making cuttings. This will facilitate tying 

 up and insure the healthy growth of the next bud elow as the top 

 bud. 



Sometimes, even when the vine has made sufficient growth, the 

 canes are prostrate or crooked and none can be tied up straight to 

 the stake. In this case the vine must be pruned like a weak vine 

 that is, thinned to one cane and this cane cut back to two buds. 



Fig. 2. Treatment of an average vine during the third season or 

 of a vigorous vine during the second. 



a. Vine pruned to one cane and tied to stake. 



b. Removal of sucker (S) and lower shoots (W) in spring. 



c. Vine in summer at time of pinching. 



In no case should two canes of any length be left, and in all cases 

 where it is impossible to obtain the full length of well-ripened wood 

 for tying up, the cane should be cut back to two buds. It is very 

 bad practice to leave some of the canes of intermediate length, as 

 this causes the vines to head out at various lengths and produces 

 an irregularity of shape which can never be remedied and which 

 interferes with regular pruning, cultivation and other vineyard 

 work. 



The idea to be kept in mind is to cut back each winter nearly to 

 the ground that is, to two buds until a cane is produced with a 

 length of well-ripened wood and good buds equal to the height at 



