CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



is taken off in the same manner from the scion of the variety to 

 be budded in, and from a branch of the year, or preceding one, well 

 in sap, and having about the same diameter as the stock. The ring 

 should have on it one or two buds. It must fit exactly the space 

 prepared on the stock, and more particularly at the lower circular 

 cut, so that both barks will exactly unite at that point. One must 

 be very careful while drawing the knife around the stock not to go 

 too deep into the wood to injure the cambium layer/ or to weaken 

 the stock. Tie a bandage firmly over the whole. After two or 

 three weeks the bandage has to be taken off, and, in the ensuing 

 spring, the top of the stock or limb is cut down three inches above 

 the budding. 



Another way of working such trees is by "whistle budding," 

 which is done in the spring, when the sap is well up. The stock 

 and the scion must be both of the same size and well in sap. The 

 top of the stock is cut down to several inches from the ground ; a 

 circular ring of bark is then taken off, and a corresponding ring 

 from the scion, but without a longitudinal cut, is put in its place 

 and pushed down around it and bandaged. 



To prepare an old tree for budding over, the limbs may be cut 

 back in February to within two to six feet of the trunk, covering 

 the ends with paint or grafting wax. Allow two shoots to start 

 near the end of each of these amputated limbs, and rub off all other 

 shoots. Bud the shoots when they attain the thickness of one's 

 finger, taking green buds from the growth it is desired to introduce, 

 or let them grow and bud in the fall, whichever is most convenient ; 

 or bud in the growing shoot, and re-bud in the fall where buds have 

 failed. 



Budding in Old Bark. Budding with a large shield into old 

 bark is also successful. Judge Rhodes of San Jose describes, his 

 method, both with the olive and the fig, in this way : 



Cut shield from a limb of about y 2 inch in diameter, length of shield 

 about \y 2 inches, its thickness from y & to % inch, and its bud near the 

 middle of the shield. Do not remove the wood from behind the bud. 

 Make a cut in the stock, through the bark and into the wood, its length 

 and width a little greater than those of the shield. Insert the shield into 

 the cut, so that the inner bark of the top of the shield and cut will coin- 

 cide, so that one side of the shield and cut and both sides, if practicable 

 will coincide. Place the top of the cut over the shield (removing a part 

 of the flap so the bud will not be covered), and fasten flap, shield and 

 stock together very firmly with twine, and protect them with paper tied 

 around them. They may be grafted in that mode, whenever dormant buds 

 are found, for the shields. Twenty-four shields were inserted at several 

 times during one spring, and there was only one failure. 



Grafting the Fig. The fig can be grafted by the cleft-graft 

 method, as described in Chapter IX, but the cleft should be made 

 to one side and not through the central pith. Especial care must 

 be taken in excluding the air. Fill the cleft between the scions with 

 warm wax, which will run in and fill the cavity. Then bind the 

 stock with wax bands, taking the greatest care to cover the exposed 

 wood surface, the cut end of the bark, and as far down the stock as 

 the bark has been split. 



