PROPAGATING THE OLIVE 347 



show clearly how the cuttings are made. They are placed closely 

 in boxes of sand about four inches deep, rooted under glass or in a 

 lath house, and after a few months are potted in small pots, or may 

 be reset farther apart in boxes of soil or in the open ground. In 

 January or February, the wood seems to be in the best condition 

 in Berkeley, but such condition may come at other times in other 

 parts of the State. From such cuttings the trees will be of good 

 size for planting in permanent place the next year. It is very 

 important to take the small cuttings just when the wood is in the 

 right condition, not too soft nor too hard. How to determine this 

 point can not be described ; it must be learned by experience. 



Propagating the Olive by small cuttings. 



Growing Trees from Truncheons. New varieties secured from 

 the south of Europe generally came in the shape of truncheons, 

 which are long sticks of hard wood. They may be planted entire, 

 or be sawn and split into large cuttings (for olive cuttings, even in 

 firewood shape, will grow if properly treated), though better trees 

 come from small cuttings. If the truncheons are bedded a few 

 inches below the surface in moist, warm soil, shoots will appear 

 which can be worked up into small cuttings when they reach the 

 proper condition. 



BUDDING THE OLIVE 



Since the planting of a large area of Redding Picholines and the 

 fruit found to be that of a wild or poor seedling olive and not a 

 superior named variety, there has been a demand for working over 



