BUDDING AND GRAFTING OLIVES 349 



out strongly, what remains of the stock above the bud is cut smooth, 

 close to the bud, to allow it to heal over. 



Flap-Budding the Olive. Although the use of a twig with a 

 pushing bud is to be commended strongly a dormant bud can be 

 forced into activity quite successfully. Mr. C. A. Wetmore describes 

 this method : 



Late in the spring, when advancing warmth has set the sap to moving 

 freely, observe a tree of the kind you desire to propagate. Notice parts of 

 limbs with vigorous growth and clean bark free from lateral twigs. Where 

 a leaf adheres to such limbs or where one has been and fallen off, there 

 is a small bud or eye. Such dormant buds or eyes are lifted from the 

 wood together with a small piece of the bark about one-third or half an 

 inch square. On the properly selected limbs of the trees you wish to bud 

 into, make three cuts with a knife, so as to include a space a little longer 

 than the piece of bark to be inserted. Two parallel cuts are in line with 

 the limb; one is across the top. Lifting the flap of bark thus made care- 

 fully with dull side of a blade, the cambium layer of the wood will be ex- 

 posed. Slip in the piece of bark with the dormant bud and press it close 

 with the flap made on the limb. Tie the flap firmly to cover the whole 

 piece inserted with raffia or strips of cloth or soft twine. At the end of 

 one week cut the ligatures and suffer the flap to curl up and dry. If the 

 insertion has united to the wood, it will remain green and fresh-looking 

 about the dormant eye. If this freshness continues after exposure, the bud 

 has taken. Then cut with a knife or saw into the limb above the bud to 

 induce the sap to force the growth. If any one fails, the limb need not be cut 

 into, but may be budded in another place. The following winter, cut off 

 the limb above the bud if it has sprouted well, and, as sufficient new wood 

 is made, the old branches of the tree may be cut away. 



GRAFTING THE OLIVE 



Grafting is also used in working over both large and small olive 

 trees. Good success can sometimes be had with the ordinary method 

 of top grafting, as described in Chapter IX, using scions not larger 

 than a lead pencil, and inserting them in April. The olive can also 

 be successfully grafted in the bark according to the method shown 

 in Chapter IX. This graft is used for working in the top of the 

 tree, but it may also be used at the surface of the ground, covering 

 the cut surfaces with earth when the scions are in place. Judge 

 A. L. Rhodes, of San Jose, gives the following explicit account of 

 his success with a bark graft, as follows : 



The stock, where cut off, may be from half to two and one-half inches 

 in diameter; the scion about one-quarter inch in diameter, the lower end 

 to be formed by an oblique cut of about one and one-half inches. Split the 

 bark of the top of the stock about one inch, raise the bark at the sides 

 of the split slightly, insert the point of the scion between the bark and 

 wood of the stock, at the split, and press it down the length of its oblique 

 cut. Fasten it by binding twine around both stock and scion, about ten 

 times, very firmly. Apply grafting wax to top of stock and scion. 



If the bark of the stock be three or more years old, make two slits in 

 it, about one and one-half inches in length, the width between them equal- 

 ing the width of the oblique cut of the scion, raise the bark between the 

 slits, cut off about half of it, by a sloping cut, then insert the scion and 

 press it down, and bind with twine and apply grafting wax, as above 

 directed. Cotton wrapping twine is of sufficient strength. 



