CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



Stocks the diameter of one inch or more should receive two or more 

 scions. Scions gathered a short time before their insertion are the most 



arcessful The twine around the stock and scion should not be loosened 

 until it indents the bark of the stock. Protect the graft from sun and 



vind Wrap paper around the stock and scion, the paper to extend a few 

 inches above the scion or place the paper, in the form of a bag, over 

 scion and stock and secure the paper with twine, tied around the stock 



1 Ba S rk P grafting may be performed at any time when the bark of the 

 stock can be readily raised whenever the bark will "slip." I grafted in 

 that mode in each week of April and May and the first of June, and in 

 September. Failures not 5 per cent. Twelve scions inserted about the 

 last of September are all growing. Shield budding is the most successful m 

 the spring. I prefer the bark grafting, as the shield buds may not start for 

 months, or even for a year. 



Side Graft on Small Wood. A satisfactory graft can be made 

 with an oblique cut, as shown in Chapter IX, which is superior to a 

 split of the stock, because on a small stock the split is apt to con- 

 tinue farther than desirable when the scion is pushed in. With the 

 slanting cut in the stock the scion can be firmly pushed into place 

 without splitting. The union of inner barks of scion and stock must 

 be made on one side when the stock is larger than the scion. This 

 graft is tied in and waxed, or a waxed band may be used. In work- 

 ing small wood at the ground surface, the earth should be drawn 

 up around the graft. 



Grafting on Rooted Cuttings. Good trees are made by grafting 

 in the nursery on rooted Picholine cuttings. Such cuttings are 

 made from wood, say, one-half inch in diameter, using a young scion 

 with a starting bud. Such a scion makes a saleable tree with one 

 year's growth. 



PLANTING THE OLIVE 



All suggestions of care in laying off and planting in Chapters X 

 and XI should be considered in establishing olive orchards, and the 

 precautions against drying out during transportation and trans- 

 planting should be carefully heeded because the tree is an evergreen 

 and more quickly injured by exposure and evaporation. In planting 

 trees from the nursery it is desirable to remove all foliage, white- 

 wash against sunburn and save the strength of the stem for a 

 new start. 



There is nothing gained by planting out the olive too early in 

 the spring. Both cuttings and rooted plants will do better if planted 

 after the soil becomes well warmed, and after the heavy rains of 

 the winter are well over. Of course the time when this condition 

 comes is different from year to year, and varies, also, according to 

 locality and situation. During the first summer the young plants 

 will need occasional watering in some situations ; in others, merely 

 mulching, or keeping the surface finely stirred, will suffice. 



Olive trees are planted at different distances, but the ruling in- 

 tervals are twenty to twenty-five feet. This will allow the trees to 

 bear a number of years before they crowd each other ; and then 

 removing alternate trees gives ample distance for future growth. 



