TRANSPLANTING OLIVE TREES 351 



Some planters hold, however, that original planting should be at 

 40-feet intervals. But it is clearly the part of wisdom to hold the 

 olive to a low growth in order that the fruit may be cheaply gath- 

 ered, and this may be done by the proper pruning. 



Transplanting Old Olive Trees. California experience shows 

 that an old olive tree can be successfully transplanted if both the 

 branches and roots are cut to short stubs and little more than the 

 trunk reset in moist, warm soil, but usually better results can be 

 had by a more careful effort. The method outlined below is appli- 

 cable to olives and citrus fruits and, in a general way, to all ever- 

 green trees : 



After the heavy rains are over and the ground is getting warm 

 say in February cut back not less than one-half of the top. Trench 

 all around the tree to a depth of two or three feet, according to the 

 size of the tree; x the inside edge of the trench about two feet from 

 the trunk of the tree. At the same time remove top earth down to 

 the roots to reduce the weight. This trenching cuts off all side 

 roots and gives room to get in to handle the ball of earth, which 

 rope up with barley sacks under the ropes so as to hold the ball 

 from breaking. When this is done well, dig in and under the tree 

 from the bottom of the trench so as to cut off the bottom roots. 

 Carefully pull and pry the ball to see that it will wobble a little in 

 the hole to show that all the roots are cut. Then get ropes and 

 sacks under the ball, rig up a derrick and block and tackle and lift 

 the balled tree out of the hole, land it on a low truck and haul it to 

 a hole previously made ready, and lower it into place by the same 

 tackle which lifted it. Fill in with fine earth and water-settle it to 

 fill all cavities covering with loose earth several inches to keep 

 from drying. Be sure the tree has plenty, but not too much, mois- 

 ture during its first summer in its new place. 



Large deciduous trees can be removed when dormant with much 

 less labor, but it should be done in the fall as soon as the soil is 

 deeply wet by rains. It should be understood, however, that mov- 

 ing large fruit trees, either evergreen or deciduous, is seldom com- 

 mercially desirable. 



PRUNING THE OLIVE 



Pruning policies as insisted upon in Chapter XII, have direct 

 bearing upon the commercial growth of the olive. The development 

 of the tree according to principles there laid down is practicable 

 and desirable. After proper low form is secured, satisfactory bear- 

 ings will depend upon regular pruning to secure new bearing shoots 

 and thinning to prevent the tree from becoming too dense and 

 bushy and from running out of reach of a step-ladder, for both 

 these acts are essential to the growth of good bearing wood, low 

 down. At the same time it must be remembered that too severe 

 cutting back forces the growth of branches which form only wood 

 buds and fruiting is postponed. 



Trees which have been allowed to form umbrella-like tops may 

 be brought down to business again by cutting back the main limbs 



