--, CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



that the young orange tree is in best condition to transplant just as 

 the new growth is starting out, and preferably when it has not 

 grown out more than two inches. In setting the tree, it should 

 stand not lower than in the nursery. Root injury is sometimes due 

 to deep planting. 



Forcing the growth of trees with fertilizers should not be neces- 

 sary in good soil but it has been done successfully. I,n planting the 

 Arlington Heights orchards at Riverside, this method was followed : 



About a pound of dried blood was mixed with the earth when the tree 

 was placed and the hole filled; then a deep furrow was plowed each side 

 the row and at right angles to the direction in which the water would flow. 

 For a short space near each tree these furrows were filled with manure 

 and two pounds more of blood, then the furrow was back plowed to cover 

 the manure. Thus for two years the young trees had food ready for the 

 roots to lay hold on, and they made a record of bearing an average of 

 three boxes of lemons per tree at three years from planting. 



Great care must be taken that transplanted orange trees do not 

 become dry after planting. The methods of irrigation are described 

 in Chapter XV. Good cultivation should also attend the orange 

 from its first planting onward. This subject is fully discussed in 

 Chapter XIII. 



PRUNING THE ORANGE 



All the considerations urged in Chapter XII in favor of low- 

 headed and strongly branched trees apply to the orange, though 

 the habit of the tree in growth and bearing requires different prun- 

 ing policies. The orange tree is more disposed naturally to assume 

 a good form than most other trees, and for this reason most exper- 

 ienced growers declare their belief in pruning as little as possible. 

 This is unquestionably good policy providing attention enough is 

 given to securing a shapely and convenient tree, and to overcome 

 the tendency in the young tree to run out very long shoots which 

 result later in unsymmetrical shoulders with hollows beneath them 

 and obviate a weeping habit, which interferes with irrigation and 

 prevents the development of good bearing space above. It is so easy 

 to bring the orange tree into good form by a little hard thinking 

 about what shape is desirable and a little timely cutting and pinch- 

 ing to secure it. 



It has long been held that the orange tree should assume a com- 

 pact wall of foliage, the interior of the tree being considered merely 

 the framework to support this and pump sap into it. Recently the 

 importance of removing dead wood from the center of the tree is 

 being urged, even though the cost is considerable, and a rational 

 thinning of branches to admit light and air in sufficient amount to 

 secure good fruit near the center of the tree is also being advocated 

 and practiced to some extent. All these progressive tendencies 

 carry the orange nearer to the application of the principles of prun- 

 ing which are discussed in detail in Chapter XII, including the 

 rational recourse to more severe pruning or cutting back to induce a 

 growth of new and stronger wood for subsequent bearing. In other 

 cases cutting back of varieties inclined to make a rank wood growth, 



