PRUNING ORANGE TREES 377 



like the Valencia Late to encourage a better supply of fruiting wood, 

 is being advocated. It seems clear that there are important ends to 

 be gained by more pruning of the orange tree, and by earnest think- 

 ing and close observation along this line. 



It has been held that it was necessary to prune the young tree 

 to quite a high head at first to allow for the natural droop of the 

 branches and the result is seen in many young trees with slim stems 

 and umbrella-like tops. It is better to develop a stout stem by 

 allowing for a time a low growth upon it and then raise it later by 

 removal of the lower growth which has done good service and out- 

 lived its usefulness. By wise under-pruning it is possible not only 

 to secure a shapely and convenient tree but also -to train the lower 

 growth so that it shall present good, low bearing wood without 

 groveling in the dust. 



Unquestionably the drooping habit of budded orange trees is 

 largely due to their treatment. A grower who does not believe in 

 pruning allows the branches to extend too far horizontally, and the 

 weight of the foliage and the early fruiting bring the branches to 

 the ground. To relieve the lower branches of the young tree of a 

 part of this weight will enable them to assume a better direction, 

 and this slight relief at first will prevent much branch-sawing in 

 later years. The young tree as it comes from the nursery usually 

 starts upon an upright course. If stopped at about three feet it 

 can be led to develop strong and well-arranged branches, with 

 proper spacing between them to prevent too many main branches, 

 much as has been described for deciduous fruit trees in Chapter 

 XII. The adjacent engraving, Fig. 1, shows a young tree in plant- 

 ing condition, stopped at three feet and needing only a slight cutting 

 back of the laterals to be ready to begin its orchard life. If young 

 trees are transplanted short distances and at the right time they 

 do not need so much cutting back as is commonly given them. If 

 allowed to grow from the start shown in Fig. 1, pruning only to 

 prevent long branches from running out at random, and removing 

 branches which may start strongly from near the base, the tree will 

 assume the branch-form shown in Fig. 2 and at from two to three 

 years after planting in the orchard. At about this age the removal 

 of lower branches begins, as they have served their purpose in 

 shading the trunk and bearing the first fruit. These branches are 

 removed one by one until, when the tree is five years in the orchard, 

 it has lost all branches below the two-foot line. The higher branches 

 assume the more horizonal habit, too great out-shooting is re- 

 pressed, and at about five years orchard-age the tree attains a height 

 of about twelve feet and is of the general form shown in Fig. 3. 

 The next few months will bring its foliage to the ground to remain 

 there or to be under-trimmed, as the notion of the grower may be. 



BUILDING DOWN AND NOT SAGGING DOWN 



It is perfectly feasible and rational to secure a good form of low 

 tree without removal of large branches and without relying upon 

 the sag of the branches from a high head. It requires rather more 



