BUDDING THE WALNUT 441 



walnut and the native California black walnut is called a Royal 

 hybrid), while the Paradox hybrids (English walnuts crossed with 

 California black) make a large root and but a moderate top the 

 first year, and few make good the second year. The Paradox hybrid 

 roots are also subject to killing by the oak-root fungus, which the 

 straight native seedlings and the Royal hybrids both resist. 



Budding the Walnut. Twig buds as used with the olive are also 

 successful with the walnut and ring budding works well on shoots 

 of a year's growth, which have at least attained the thickness of the 

 middle ringer, if the buds are set at the base of these shoots where 

 the wood is perfectly round. The bandage should pass above and 

 below the bud so that the bark under it may be pressed down close 

 upon the stock. 



Mr. A. W. Keith, of Selma, in taking a fresh bud from the new 

 growth, found the large leaf stem a serious impediment in firmly 

 placing a shield bud upon the cambium of the stock and binding it 

 there. Shaving it away with a knife left too much exposed tissue. 

 If the leaf stem would drop off as it does when mature and leave a 

 healed-over scar, the result would be a flat surface with only the 

 bud protruding, and this could be easily bound in place so as to 

 exclude the air. By cutting off the compound leaf, leaving a stub 

 of an inch or so, the stub thus left dries and parts from the stem 

 just as a mature leaf does in the autumn, leaving clean, flat buds. 



Budding to Hold Over Winter. Mr. Pennington of Vacaville 

 has been very successful in budding by cutting buds in the regular 

 shield form, about 1J4 inches long, cut from branches J^ to y^ inch 

 in diameter, so as to get wide buds with but little wood left in them. 

 He also prefers to have stocks large, and considers a stock iy 2 inches 

 in diameter not too large. He uses ordinary budding twine for 

 tying, but does not use wax to cover the incisions. He buds as late 

 as it is possible to get a good flow of sap, as then the weather is 

 likely to be cooler, which is an important factor, and the growing 

 season is about finished, which will allow the twine to be left in 

 place all winter, which he considers advisable. Buds are more apt 

 to succeed when pushed upward from the cross-cut than downward 

 from it. 



Budding to Force Growth. Budding during the growing season 

 to force immediate growth on the buds is successfully practiced, 

 both in nursery stock and in working over orchard trees, by Mr. 

 Antone Mardesich, propagator for Mr. Leonard Coates of Morgan 

 Hill, in this way: 



Buds have been successfully put in from April to October, but spring 

 budding is recommended. The early budding is done from budwood about 

 half an inch in diameter cut in January, while entirely dormant. About six 

 buds at the base of last season's growth are suitable. They must be on 

 round wood, as buds taken from angular wood do not flatten tightly enough 

 against the stock. The dormant budwood is packed in damp shavings in a 

 box in a shed until budding time comes. The shavings are too damp if any 

 moisture can be squeezed out of them. Sand is likely to dull the budding 

 knife. If the budwood is to be used late in the spring, it must be kept 

 cold. If it is to be used early in spring, it may be kept the last week or 



