444 CALIFORNIA FRUITS: HOW TO GROW THEM 



wax over. The same method on larger trees is performed exactly 

 in the same way, except that the lip of course on the larger limbs, 

 which are three or four inches through, would be considerably 

 larger, and the scion instead of being placed directly in the middle 

 of the Hp, or in the center, would be placed on the side so as to have 

 the cambium of the scion connecting with the cambium on the stock 

 at least on one side. Three or four, or sometimes five scions are put 

 on a large limb, and in most cases three or four scions would grow. 

 After the scion has reached a certain stage of growth, this string 

 will commence to bind, and must be cut down right over where the 

 scion is. The wax on either side will tend to hold the string, but as 

 the wood naturally grows, the strings will draw apart, and it will 

 not bind as it would if the string was not cut. 



Side grafting with a saw-cut, as described for the peach in 

 Chapter XX, also works well with the walnut. 



Treatment After Grafting. A fuller account of the protection 

 of scions after setting and during their early growth is given by 

 Mr. Edwin Gower of Fowler, Fresno County, thus explicitly : 



Take two folds of burlap, punch holes for the scions to pass through, 

 making a hood inclosing and covering the entire stump, letting it extend 

 down the sides a short distance; tie a string around the stump to hold it 

 in place; by using this method the wax will remain in perfect condition. 



After the scion is growing rapidly, cut the string; do not remove it. 

 This allows the scion to grow without the string cutting it. If small trees, 

 drive a stake down to tie the new growth. On old trees nail four sticks 

 equal distances apart around the stump, letting the sticks extend four or 

 five feet beyond the stump, wrap some string around these sticks; this 

 acts as a net enclosing the growth of the scion, which grows phenomenally 

 on black walnut. I have seen instances where they grew fifteen feet in one 

 year. This net acts as a support and keeps the scion from either breaking 

 or splitting off by the winds. It is sometimes advisable to nib off the end 

 of the branches to check the growth. Cut them back vigorously for two 

 or three years, until such time as they are well attached to the stump. 



I have used the bark graft, also the cleft graft, but I prefer the former, 

 as the scion seems to grow more rapidly and reach maturity sooner. 



PLANTING WALNUT ORCHARDS 



There is much difference in practice in planting out walnut trees 

 in permanent place. Some advocate the use of trees two or three 

 years from the seed, getting as much of the tap-root as possible; 

 others allow the tree to remain in nursery until it throws out lat- 

 erals, which is usually done the fourth or fifth year. Two-year- 

 old trees are generally preferred, but walnut trees of many times 

 that age can be successfully transplanted if the work is carefully 

 done. Walnut trees are usually set forty feet in squares, though 

 some give the large-growing varieties fifty feet. Planting in hex- 

 agonals at forty-five feet distance gives very satisfactory results. 

 Some growers plant in squares at thirty feet distance, intending 

 to remove alternate trees as they crowd each other, first cutting 

 back, for a time, the trees which are finally to be removed. Sixty 

 feet is close enough for mature trees. 



