CANTALOUPE CULTURE AND PEDIGREED CANTALOUPE SEED. 



roots which are shown on the stem of the seedling to the left in the 

 picture. 



The second root system develops from the stem about the time 

 the fifth leaf appears, or four to five weeks after germination; these 

 roots seem to form the main feeders of the plant, for the growth of 

 the plant is almost insignificant until it feels the impulse of this larger 

 and better root system. The question of good early growth and ma- 

 turity almost hinges on the success of the farmer in supplying the 

 conditions that will favor the early and proper development of this 

 lateral, or main root system. It seems evident that the depth of plant- 

 ing and the manner of managing the soil in the hill has an important 

 relation to the early development of these lateral roots. Experience 

 teaches that seed planted much over two inches in depth are slow and 

 difficult to germinate, being weakened by the long stem that is necessary 

 to reach the surface, and on the other hand, if planting is too shallow, 

 the seeds are apt to dry out, or if rain follows a crust will form, which 

 must be removed, and that often exposes the seeds that are not planted 

 at a sufficient depth, with fatal results, or leaves the plant with too 

 shallow a stem support, it is then whipped and wrung by the high, 

 drying winds or exposed to the attacks of the cucumber beetle. 



Seed will germinate readily when weather conditions are favorable, 

 if planted at about the depth indicated by the white portion of the 

 stem of the seedling on the left in Plate No. 2. 



When the seed leaves are nearly to the surface, the hills should 

 be raked off, removing any crust or dry lumps which may obstruct the 

 little melon plant. Plenty of seed should be used to provide against a 

 loss in handling the hills, or from the attacks of insects. It also affords 

 a chance to select the thriftiest individual plants when the thinning 

 is done. Owing to the injuries from the striped cucumber beetle, the 

 thinning should be delayed until the plants have about the fifth leaf, 

 when the beetle will not do much more injury, the extra plants in the 

 hill should be destroyed by pinching or cutting off the stems, as pulling 

 them out may disturb the plants to be left. 



HOEING 



Hoeing the hills is of great importance, but it should be done with 

 skill both as to the time and in the manner it is done, for careless hoeing 

 is a common error; if the seed has been properly planted in mellow 

 soil and the irrigation properly applied, there is no reason for deep 

 hoeing in and close to the hill, as it only disturbs the plant and dries out 

 the soil; weeds can be destroyed by rather shallow hoeing. 



The dry, cloddy soil on the surface of the hill, should be removed 

 and replaced with fine mellow soil drawn up from away from the hill, 

 hilling up the plants as much as possible; even to almost covering the 

 two seed leaves, this will protect the plants from wind, and insects 

 to a large measure; but the most important feature of this process is 

 the holding of the moisture well upon the stems, affording the best con- 

 dition for a long base for the development of the roots, as well as supplying 

 the plant with moisture. If on the other hand, the soil in the hill is 

 loosened up with the hoe and not hilled up by drawing the loosened soil 

 to the plant with the hoe, the hill will usually dry out, and only a short 

 portion of the stem be in moist soil to induce root development. 



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