GOOSEBERRY. 225 



AJ a general thing, it does not ripen its wood so early 

 In the season as the Currant, and the planting of the cut- 

 tings may be deferred until spring. 



They are, however, more certain, if made in the fall after 

 the leaves have fallen, or when the young wood is fully 

 mature, than if the operation is deferred until spring. 



The cuttings may be buried either in the open ground 

 or cellar, being careful not to allow them to become dry 

 and shrivelled or too wet. Growing from seed cannot be 

 too highly Recommended at the present time, because we 

 are in great want of varieties suited to our climate, and it 

 is scarcely to be expected that we shall obtain them in 

 any other way than by growing seedlings from our native 

 species. 



We have plenty of varieties which were produced from 

 the seeds of foreign kinds, but they are neither superior 

 in quality or size, nor any better suited to our climate 

 than the originals. 



Native varieties from native species is the field in which 

 to labor for making permanent progress, and the general 

 success of the few varieties that have been produced, shows 

 the truth of this assertion. 



PRUNING AND TRAINING. 



The single stem system is probably the best one for 

 training the Gooseberry. The fruit is produced on short 

 gpurs on the two and three years old wood, as well as on 

 that of the preceding year, and the directions given for the 

 Currant are applicable to the Gooseberry. If but little 

 fruit is desired, and that of large size, then prune close, and 

 leave but few branches, and the opposite course may be 

 followed for a large crop. The Gooseberry should be train, 

 ed with a very open head, more so than the Currant, be- 

 cause if the air does not have free access to every portion 

 of the plant, mildew is almost certain to destroy not only 

 the fruit, but the inside branches, if not the whole plant. 

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