RASPBERRY. 119 



Bury the boxes containing the roots on a dry knoll or 

 slight elevation in the garden, bank them up with soil, 

 and cover so deeply that the roots will not be frozen. In 



addition to this, it is 

 well to cover the 

 whole with boards 

 to carry off the wa- 

 ter, and if the soil is 

 naturally tenacious 

 Fi-. 46 -BOX OP CUTTINGS. an j wet> a small ex- 



cavation should be made at a point that will be under the 

 center of the box when put in place, as shown in figure 46. 

 This arrangement will allow any surplus moisture which 

 may accumulate in the boxes to drain off. Early in spring, 

 as soon as the weather and soil will permit, take out the 

 roots and plant them in good rich soil, placing the pieces 

 about three or four inches apart, in drills, and covering 

 two to four inches deep, according to the nature of the 

 soil. If it is a heavy one, two inches will be sufficient. 

 When the plants are to be cultivated with the plow or 

 cultivator, the drills should be three feet apart ; but the 

 best method is to place them not more than eighteen 

 inches or two feet apart, and cultivate entirely with the 

 hoe or fork. In a naturally dry and porous soil, it is a 

 good plan to cover the entire surface, at the time of plant- 

 ing, with a liberal dressing of some coarse material as a 

 mulch. This will insure a supply of moisture, and often 

 save a large portion of the cuttings, if not the entire 

 stock. Cuttings made in the fall, and placed where they 

 will not freeze during winter, have an advantage over 

 those made in the spring, from the fact that the peculiar 

 process which always precedes the formation of roots, 

 called the callus, has sufficient time for full development 

 before actual root growth commences. The new roots are 

 usually emitted from the ends of the cuttings where the 

 callus appears. The callus is always produced first, roots 



