FEATHER INDUSTRIES 183 



developed from the fragments of several feathers, 

 as great proficiency has been attained in this art 

 by the feather manufacturers. A good feather is 

 selected and the vane is pared down or split in 

 two. Other feathers, similarly treated, are super- 

 imposed upon it with their flattened vanes touch- 

 ing. The bundle of shafts are then sewed to- 

 gether at one-inch intervals and " stemmed "; i. e., 

 a wire is sewed in. An average "made" ostrich- 

 plume thus is composed of three or four feathers, 

 five or six being utilized in the manufacture of the 

 best quality. 



After the sewing is concluded, the plumes are 

 curled and twisted. The latter process is accom- 

 plished by manipulating the feathers in the steam 

 arising from an ordinary kettle. When they 

 harden they will retain their new shape. The 

 curling is done with a pair of curling-irons simi- 

 lar to those used on the hair. 



Despite its early prosperity, however, the time 

 came a few years ago when ostrich farming re- 

 ceived a severe set-back. The World War broke 

 out in Europe. Fashions began to change and 

 ostrich-feathers fell into disrepute. They were 

 cast aside for simpler styles. Gradually the 

 market weakened, then broke. 



With the loss of a market, down slid the feather 

 industry into the depths. American ostrich 

 farmers were panic-stricken ; there was no longer 

 a sale for their product. The tide of fashion had 



