1 8 AMERICAN POMOLOGICAL SOCIETY 



There are, however, exceptions to most all rules, and instances can be 

 pointed out where the sweet cherry has been known to do better upon the 

 heavier, than upon the lighter soils. The variety, Windsor, does especially 

 well upon clay soil, but as to elevation there is no second choice, if you 

 would be successful with the sweet cherry. 



PLANTING THE ORCHARD 



Most varieties of sweet cherries are strong, vigorous growers, and 

 require more room than the sour kinds, and should be planted at least 30 

 feet apart each way. The ground should be plowed deep and should be 

 well harrowed, and the planting be done as soon in the spring as this can be 

 done. All bruised portions of the roots should be cut off and a good average 

 depth for setting the tree would be ten to twelve inches, "good judgment 

 being the rule." 



PRUNING 



One of the most important points in starting a cherry orchard is the 

 low heading of the trees. To have the lower branches start eighteen to 

 twenty-four inches from the ground, is none too low. The low heading 

 protects the trunk of the tree from sun scald, and the cracking of the bark, 

 and this insures a longer life to the tree, and facilitates all of the work in 

 caring for the tree, and picking the fruit. With the modern extension 

 tools, the cultivation can be given under the lower limbs of the low headed 

 trees, without inconveniences or serious injury to the tree. 



The low heading of the trees, however, cannot always be regulated, 

 as many times, the trees are high headed beyond repair, when they come 

 from the nursery, but when it is possible head them down, and force the 

 growth out below. The pruning should always be done in the spring, just 

 before, or about the time the sap begins to flow. 



With the strong vigorous growth of the sweet cherry, the pruning 

 should be rather severe the first four or five years, starting the tree with 

 from four to five main branches, and heading in, at least one half or two- 

 thirds of the new growth each year, making the foundation of the main 

 branches strong and stocky, forming a round headed tree, with plenty of 

 lateral branches, rather than allow the tree to grow long with no lateral 

 branches, as is characteristic of this type. 



After the trees get well into bearing the growth will be much lighter 

 and little pruning will be necessary, except to keep dead or broken branches 

 cut out, and thinning out to give sufficient light and air to the lower limbs. 

 When it is necessary to cut off a large limb, the wound should be covered 

 with grafting wax, or paint to keep the wood from drying out, while nature 

 is healing it over, otherwise the wood would decay to the heart, would never 

 heal over, and the tree would break down years before it otherwise would 

 have done. 



