JULY 15, 1912 



443 



Fig. 5. — The "kifk-open" device. 



For the bee escape over tlie door we want 

 two ijieces, Nos. 11 and 12, l-^-i inches wide 

 by 20 inches long. Next, two pieces, No. 

 13 and 14, about 2 inches wide by 3 feet 

 71/4 inches long. No. 15 is 1% wide by the 

 length required to reach from the lower 

 left-hand corner to near the center of No. 

 13. No. 16, of course, is to be the same 

 length for the other side. Nos. 15 and 16 



ai-6 to be about % inch apart at the top. 

 It would be better if Nos. 11, 12, 15, and 16 

 were tapered to % inch at the top. The 

 bee escape is put together in the manner 

 shown in the diagram over the door. The 

 wire cloth is cut large enough so that it will 

 project two inches above the top piece No. 

 13. It is then nailed to the back of pieces 

 13 and 14, taking care to have it pi'oject 

 above 14 by 2 inches. Wire cloth and cross- 

 pieces 13 and 14 are then screwed and 

 r.ailed to 11, 12, 15, and 16 after they are 

 in place. When properly put up, bees that 

 collect on the inside of the door can crawl 

 upward into the escape and finally out at 



Fig. 



7. — Uncapping-box witli sireeii tray above, 

 tipped up to show the construction. 



Fig. 6. — The bee escape above thp \viiiflo\ 

 the outside. 



the apex made by pieces 15 and 16 at the 

 top. 



In taking off our honey we sometimes 

 find the bees in such condition that we can 

 shake most of them out of the supers with 

 a few shakes. Then the supers are taken 

 to the honey-house and placed on end 3 or 

 4 high, so arranged that the light from the 

 <loor will shine through them. The win- 

 4I0WS being darkened, the bees collect on 

 the door, which we open occasionally, and 

 jar them into the air on the outside. In 

 doing tliis, or at any time when robbers are 

 around the door, we kill very few bees, as 

 about the only place where they can be 

 mashed is on the three blocks, 2% inches 



