CHURCH AND COCKPIT. 283 



negroes, and was never fit for work. We had not 

 much time to spare at TenerifFe, for the anchor 

 was weighed at 10 p.m., and at last the head of 

 the steamer was fairly turned towards Africa. 



On a subsequent occasion I remained a month 

 at TenerifFe, and, considering the confined area, 

 enjoyed myself very much. The Spaniards were 

 extremely hospitable. I -was made a member 

 of the Casino, and introduced to all the prin- 

 cipal families in Santa Cruz. Sunday is a great 

 , day in that town. After mass at 12 a.m., all 

 the men rush from church to the cock-pit, and 

 for several hours consecutively mains are fought; 

 the Spanish game cocks being extremely plucky, 

 continuing the combat until one is either killed or 

 falls from exhaustion. The birds are well trained, 

 then carefully weighed and matched, and fight 

 with their natural spurs sharpened. The greatest 

 excitement is shown by the lookers-on, and large 

 sums of money change hands after each fight. At 

 these gatherings perfect equality reigns, and it 

 somewhat surprised me to see swarthy -looking 

 muleteers sporting their doubloons and betting 



