VIENNESE SUPPERS. 507 



the Atishrusch, it being entirely monopolised by the 

 Emperors of Austria and Russia, and a few mag- 

 nates of the " blue blood," and it is very difficult 

 even to get any of the second quality, the 

 Malzchlap. The Cave-Esterhazy (Harhof-strasse) 

 is the great gathering-place of the hons vivants of 

 Vienna, and I there tasted different vins de pays 

 that appeared to me to be fully equal in delicate 

 flavour to the generality of Khine wines. 



Suppers are " important considerations " — I may 

 say " regular institutions " of the country ; and I 

 must allow that they are very insinuating. Who 

 could withstand Forellen gebachen (boiled trout), 

 Danube schill, sturgeon, or a salmi of Huchen (a 

 most delicate fish like a trout without scales), 

 followed up with wild boar chops, roast bustard, 

 chamois or roe pasty, a capercailzie hen, gray teal, 

 woodcock, kabobbed ortolans, or quail and snipe 

 pudding % These are ordinary items in a Viennese 

 bill of fare, and the odds are ten to one in favour 

 of their being cooked to a turn. 



A man must be hlase indeed who cannot amuse 

 himself in Vienna^ for besides one of the best 



