"TAKING" THE BUD 61 



so long to get into growth again that they do not equal 

 in strength the weaker ones that are not subjected to 

 the stopping. 



It is possible by striking the cuttings rather early, say, 

 in November, or late (early in February), to alter the time 

 of blooming somewhat, but the actual difference is not 

 great, from a week to ten days being the widest difference 

 that can be made by altering the date of inserting the 

 cutting without losing a proportionate amount in the size 

 of the flower. But where varieties are known to be too 

 early on first-crown buds, the best plan is to get good 

 plants that made their natural break in May, and stop 

 them at some suitable date in June, after they are nicely 

 rooted in their flowering pots, securing the next bud that 

 appears after the stopping. Plants so stopped do not 

 suffer any serious check, but the flowering period may 

 be retarded two or three weeks in this way, and the re- 

 sulting blooms are nearer to full first-crown size than thoee 

 obtainable by any other method, and further, the flowers 

 open well and are usually of good colour. This mode of 

 treatment suits F. S. Vallis, Lady Talbot, Master James, 

 James Lock, and Mrs. G. Mileham, and practically all the 

 varieties that are just a little too early on first-crown buds. 



There are some varieties like Mrs. W. Knox and White 

 Queen that are quite good on what are termed natural 

 second-crown buds, but there are not many of them, and 

 before deciding to let any variety flower on this bud the 

 cultivator must be quite sure that it will finish a good big 

 flower, for there is much more satisfaction in growing a 

 large flower, even if it is a little early, than a small one 

 that is but little good when you have got it. 



Another class of flower is those that are naturally very 



