RULES FOR CULTIVATION 69 



not produce quite such heavy flowers and so are a little 

 quicker in opening. 



The plants that were stopped whilst in 3-inch pots to 

 keep them dwarf will not make a natural break before the 

 first-crown bud and so all, or most of them, must be again 

 stopped to time the bud, this being done as advised in the 

 previous paragraph, and if they have made good progress 

 they may be pinched back three or four inches, this, of 

 course, with a further view to dwarfing them. 



All the dwarfer-growing Japanese varieties are suitable 

 for this system of cultivation. Indeed there are very few, 

 except the tall varieties such as Duchess of Sutherland and 

 Reginald Vallis, that are not capable of producing good 

 blooms by this system. A grower who adopts this method 

 for the first time may not perfectly realise his ideal, but he 

 will at least discover the little points necessary to ensure 

 success in the following season, and I might add many of 

 my best flowers, especially of new varieties, have been cut 

 from plants grown in this manner. 



Where varieties come into favour so quickly and just as 

 quickly are superseded, it is not necessary to give lists for 

 various purposes, but as this chapter on the Japanese 

 section might appear incomplete without one, the following 

 list is furnished. It includes the best forty-eight varieties 

 up to 1912, those seen for the first time in 1911 being yet 

 to prove. 



Those marked * are especially suitable for single- 

 stemmed plants. 



Mrs. A. T. Miller, pure white. 

 * White Queen, creamy white. 

 *Evangeline, white, tinted with 

 pink. 



*Miss A. Nicol, white, tinted with 



mauve. 

 *Mrs. Gilbert Drabble, white, 



with greenish centre. 



